Climb Mont Blanc

We understand the balance between preparing well and saving enough energy for the long summit day and because of this, and our first class Mountain Guides, we have an excellent summit success record on Mont Blanc. We aim to climb Mont Blanc outside the very busy mid-summer season and climb mid-week to give you the best experience possible on the mountain. Our Mont Blanc courses are not just about dragging people to the summit. We aim to give a good insight in to Alpine Mountaineering 'en route' and hope to climb with you on Mont Blanc this coming 2012 season.

2012 Mont Blanc Course Dates & Prices

Mont Blanc Quick Facts

• Height: 4810.45m (depending on snow accumulation / melt!)
• Location: Between the two alpine towns of Chamonix in the Haute Savoie department of France and Courmayeur in the Italian Valle d'Aoste. The summit area is entirely in France.
• First Ascent: Jacques Balmat & Michel Paccard, 8/8/1786
• Number of Ascents per year: Approximately 20000

Course Aims

• Climb Mont Blanc
• Enjoy 6 days walking and climbing in the French (and possibly Swiss & Italian) Alps
• Develop your mountaineering skills
• Spend several nights in high mountain huts sleeping at around 3000m
• Get to know how your body reacts to a high altitude mountain environment, good preparation for the easier 7 summits peaks like Kilimanjaro or Elbrus

6 Day Course Itinerary

Mat & Josie climbing. Aiguilles Dorees & Swiss Valais Alps beyond

This is a suggested itinerary based on good weather. It may be necessary to change the programme to make best use of local mountain conditions.

• Pre-Course fitness training and, if you have the time, some walking and acclimatisation training in the hills above Chamonix for a few days before the course starts. We can offer advice on how to get the most out of these pre-course elements.

• Day 0: Evening introductory talk by a Mountain Guide, meet other group members and ask any questions about the week. Sort out any hire equipment needed for the week.

• Day 1: Equipment check and an opportunity for buying or hiring any extra kit before taking a taxi across the border to Switzerland and approaching the lovely 'Orny Hut' (2831m). Glacier & crampon training, an excellent Swiss alpine meal and, importantly, our first night sleeping at altitude. The taxi journey means that we can complete a high mountain traverse from the Swiss Alps back in to the Chamonix Valley and allows maximum time to be spent up high acclimatising.

Mountaineering Training

Movement Skills Training with Ice Axe & Crampons

Chamonix's 'Mer de Glace' is an Excellent Mountaineering Training Venue

Basic Glacier Travel Skills Are Essential for Alpine Mountaineers

The Ascent of Mont Blanc with the Aiguille de Bionassay beyond, Chamonix

• Day 2: Our pre-dawn alpine start will hopefully give us the fantastic alpine experience of crunching over a frozen and moonlit glacier in crampons. As the sun rises we will attempt to climb a classic alpine beginner’s peak like the Tete Blanche or Petite Fourche (3520m). By lunchtime we should be relaxing, enjoying Apelsaft and Rosti at the delightful Trient Mountain Hut where we can spend a higher 2nd night (3170m) sleeping and acclimatising.

• Day 3: Another alpine start provides good training for Mont Blanc summit day and hopefully fine, crisp snow conditions for the walk across the glacial Trient Plateau and ascent of the Aiguille de Tour (3544m). With the crossing of a mountain pass we return to France and, stopping of for tea and cake at the Albert Premier Hut on the way down, we will aim to be back in Chamonix for lunch. A relaxing afternoon and restful night at a much lower altitude (c.1050m) in preparation for the forthcoming summit attempt.

• Day 4: A deliberately leisurely start is made today to maximise rest and give time for any final equipment issues to be sorted before the slow and steady attempt on Mont Blanc begins. If the tramway du Mont Blanc train is running we will take this to the 'Nid d'Aigle' (Eagles Nest) and make the 2 hour approach to the Tete Rousse Hut. We then spend the afternoon relaxing, eating & drinking and talking through the plan and route for tomorrow.

• Day 5: By taking breakfast at around 0400 we aim to miss the big groups leaving both the Tete Rousse and Gouter Huts and will
  

  Celebration and relief at 4810m. The summit of Mont Blanc has superb views of much of the Alps. On a calm sunny day this can be enjoyed over a welcome summit break. On a cloudy, breezy day a quick photo is snapped before scuttling back down.

  hopefully have a much quieter time on the mountain. Timings for this summit day revolve around approximately 2 hour intervals. 2 hours to the Gouter Hut, Another 2 hours to the Vallot Hut and about another couple of hours from there to the summit. This is where your training pays off! The ascent of Mont Blanc provides a long and tough summit day and is not to be underestimated. By spending a second night back down at the Tete Rousse Hut the time pressure for the day is reduced and the experience can be enjoyed more than if it is rushed. After what is usually a 9-13 hour day we return to the hut for a meal and, usually, an early night!

• Day 6: All that remains is the short walk back to the Nid d'Aigle and trains / lifts down to the Chamonix Valley. However if the weather has not allowed a summit attempt up to now this day can provide a final chance. This is only an option for fast teams as it makes an already long and tough day even longer and tougher! If all has gone to plan this last day provides an opportunity to relax and enjoy Chamonix (particularly the view back up to Mont Blanc) and have a celebratory meal in the evening.

Who Can Climb Mont Blanc?

Whilst it is not necessary to be an experienced mountaineer to climb Mont Blanc with a Mountain Guide, a good level of fitness is necessary and some strong hill walking experience will be beneficial. The summit day will be 8-12 hours long, at altitude, so you should be physically and mentally prepared for this considerable challenge. By the standard routes, Mont Blanc is not a difficult technical peak but it is a large one and folk regularly underestimate it. For more information visit our Mont Blanc FAQ's page.

Mont Blanc 4810m

Frosty Morning on Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc Summit 19/8/2010

The Bosses Ridge on Mont Blanc

2012 Course Dates & Prices

Our course includes 6 climbing / guided days and an introductory talk the evening before the first day. The courses are run early and late season which means the mountain shouldn't be too busy and will hopefully give you the best possible experience on the mountain.

June 17 - 22, Sunday - Friday Inclusive Inclusive, (Intro Talk Saturday Evening) Places Available

June 24 - 29, Sunday - Friday Inclusive Inclusive, (Intro Talk Saturday Evening) Places Available

July 1 - 6, Sunday - Friday Inclusive Inclusive, (Intro Talk Saturday Evening) Places Available

September 9 - 14, Sunday - Friday Inclusive Inclusive, (Intro Talk Saturday Evening) Places Available

Cost

£1050

Minimum group size 2, maximum 8. Ratio of 1 Guide to 4 clients for 3 training days and 1:2 for the 3 summit days.

What’s included in the Price?

Our courses are priced on a 'guiding only' basis which means you pay the exact cost price for all other expenses like hotels, mountain huts and lift passes. These expenses amount to about 500 euros which includes 7 nights half board accommodation in a hotel & mountain huts, lift passes and the taxi journey to Switzerland. You could reduce this figure if you wanted to stay in a Gite or camp or increase it if you want to stay in a more luxury hotel.

• 6 full days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
• Transport during the course (with the exception of the taxi ride to Champex)

What’s not included?

• Valley accommodation. This course is based at the Hotel Chaumiere in Chamonix. If this is full or you would like an alternative style of accommodation please see our recommended list for places to stay in Chamonix.
• Mountain huts & lift passes, for you and the guides. Allow about 50 euros per night half board accommodation. The guides expenses are split between the group members and are discounted in huts and on lifts. The best way to deal with these expenses is to make a communal group 'kitty' which you contribute to and all expenses are paid out of.
• Flights and transfer from the airport to Chamonix.
• Lunches, extra drinks, snacks etc during the course
• Mountaineering equipment. Check the kit list below
• Insurance

More Details & Booking

For more details on our terms & conditions, to fill in a booking form and make a payment, please visit our booking page via the link below:

Course Notes

• A Mont Blanc equipment list is given below. In addition to good quality warm hill walking gear you will need technical equipment like; alpine mountaineering boots; crampons; ice-axe; harness and helmet. All this gear can be easily hired from us or in Chamonix.

Mont Blanc Equipment List

Mountaineering equipment required for climbing Mont Blanc in normal summer conditions. Makes and models are examples only. Technical equipment (crampons, ice-axe, harness, helmet) can be hired from us. Try and ke... more>

• By allowing 6 days for our Mont Blanc course we have at least one days contingency for poor weather and do everything we can to change timings and hut bookings to best fit in with the weeks weather. However good conditions are required to make a summit attempt and in the event of windy or snowy weather we will do our best to provide an excellent alternative mountaineering experience, ideally with a memorable summit in a region of the Alps receiving better weather. Here are a few possible options:

Mont Blanc Poor Weather Alternatives

Gran Paradiso 4061m

Just after dawn on the glacial ascent of the Gran Paradiso (4061m)

The ascent of the Paradiso from the Vittorio Emanuelle Hut

The Gran Paradiso North Face (left) & Glacial Route from Chabod Hut (right)

Weissmies 4017m

Fine Snow Conditions on the Weissmies North Flank Route

The Summit Ridge of the Weissmies, Swiss Alps

Near the Summit of the Weissmies

Alphubel 4206m

East Face of the Alphubel

Summit of the Alphubel

The ski approach to the Alphubel from the Tasch Hut

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