Eugster Direct, N Face Aguille du Midi

May 2006: Andy Houseman and I climbed this high quality 1000m mixed route before the very snowy weather at the end of May kicked in. The difficulties are not sustained but are concentrated into 5 excellent mixed pitches (up to Scottish VI) two thirds of the way up the face.

Thinly iced cracks and good quality granite provided some of the best climbing I have done on a big alpine north face. Although this route has had a few ascents from Brit teams based in the valley it deserves more attention as it provides far better, if harder, climbing than the numerous other popular Midi N. Face routes to the left. (A very fast ascent by Jon Bracey, Kenton Cool and Dave Hesledon gave us the idea of trying a Freak-to-Freak ascent.) There is however a surprising amount of easy ground to cover at the top of the face before the station is reached and needless to say we missed the last telepherique down by miles! Our reward for reaching the station and completing this last section in a dusky blizzard (apart from the inevitable ‘bivvi in the bogs’) was the worst hot aches I’ve ever experienced!

As soon as the temperatures rose in the second week of June this fine line was reduced to a dangerous rubble shoot. If you’re out in the valley this autumn, winter or spring cast your eye up to the big hanging groove under the station – it’s not difficult to see!