'The Smirk', Beinn Udlaidh 5/3/2010

Sam on the brilliant first pitch of 'The Smirk', V,5

It was a rather driech day in the West Highlands today and a fair bit drier in the Southern Highlands.

The day started, as usual, by finding Kenny's big yellow van already parked at our chosen venue, which today was the popular Beinn Udlaidh.

The recently deposited fresh snow had stuck to the Eastern side of the corrie and all teams avoided the fresh looking snow slopes and cornices on and above the Quartzvbein Scoop and Peter Pan area.

Sam, Stu and I climbed the first bit of ice we saw which turned out to be as good it looked. 'The Smirk' (V,5) was a highly enjoyable mix of steep, naturally featured thick ice. Good hooks, good footholds and good screws. We climbed the route parallel with Mike and Alasdair showing that ice climbing can, in the right conditions, be a sociable activity. The route gets its name from the expression on Duncan's face after his bumper day with Jim Fraser making the first ascents of this route and Organ Pipe Wall on the 29th January 1979.

Other teams were finding similar pleasant softish ice on Organ Pipe Wall, West Gully, Doctors Dilema and various other appealing bits of ice on the West side of the corrie.

More photos including a Beinn Udlaidh crag shot.

Comments

Correction

Thanks for the correction Tony. Sounds like that was a great day on the crag for you. Spent a bit of time looking at the fine steep wall in the Organ Pipe area yesterday. As one of the first ascentionists of one of the crag classics I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the 'Crossroads' affair at some point! Cheers & Good climbing, Rob.

Beinn Udliadh - The Smirk

Hi Rob
Enjoyed reading your entry re The Smirk on Beinn Udlaidh. Just a wee correction of detail.
Bob Duncan and John Fraser climbed these routes on the 27 Jan 79 during a sortie from Stirling Uni.
A very productive day as I did the second ascent after putting up Quartzvein Scoop!
Tony

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