A large dump of fresh snow last week followed by a stable period of high pressure has created some good conditions for ski touring and ski mountaineering here in Chamonix. Whilst there continues to be a considerable avalanche risk the snowpack is gradually stabilising and many teams have been out enjoying some of the classic ski tours of the Valley.

Damian and I enjoyed a pleasant night at the newly re-opened and re-furbished Argentiere Hut with it's hospitable, large and friendly guardian, 'Fred'. The French Alpine Club is unlikely to win any grand design awards for style and innovation but the new hut is an improvement and the warm reception and good food make up for the leaking roof, gloomy boot room and lack of hut slippers!

After an 0630 breakfast we set off on the atmospheric skinning ascent of the Glacier du Chardonnet. As with all the big classic touring lines on the North side of the Argentiere Glacier there is currently both a good skinning track in for the ascent and large fields of powder for the descent.

The dawn ski down the glacier under the Grande North Faces of the Argentiere Basin; steep kick turns with harscheissen leading up this major snow covered glacier to the famous crossing of the steep Col du Chardonnet. This is no rolling cross-country ski tour....this is ski mountaineering, par excellence, in the Western Alps.

The Col du Chardonnet is now equipped with a steel cable and maillon anchor and in the current good snowy conditions gave a pleasantly rapid descent via a roped side slip for Damian and a down climb with crampons and ice-axe for me. Those of suitable talent and courage could currently ski the couloir but you will have to be quick before the ruts and deep tracks make this a less appealing option.

'The 2 Cols Route', Chardonnet & Fenetre du Tour, Chamonix

Steep kick turns at dawn above the Argentiere Glacier en route to the Col du Chardonnet

The descent of the steep Swiss side (NE) of the Col du Chardonnet, Chamonix

Magnificent ski mountaineering in the Western Alps, Chamonix

On arriving to the sun and warmth of mid-morning on the Glacier de Saleina we decided on a more relaxed pace to the day and opted to cross the Fenetre du Tour to access the Glacier du Tour (2 Cols) rather than the more traditional Fenetre de Saleina and Col Sup du Tour (Classic 3 Cols route).

A great variety of snow conditions awaited us on the 2000m descent to the Le Tour ski area. Lovely light powder gave way to windblown crust gave way to warmed spring snow gave way to heavy soft wet snow, skiing through some equally heavy trees low down in the valley.

Days like these combine the 2 real elements of 'Ski' 'Mountaineering' and whilst they are not for the faint hearted provide a magnificent way of journeying through the alpine mountains in winter and spring conditions.

Chamonix Ski Mountaineering

Chamonix is a world mecca as a base for ski mountaineering. This 5 day course gives you the opportunity to sample a superb variety of demanding ski journeys. By making use of Chamonix's famous high mountain lifts some spectacular high glacier routes can be completed as day tours... more>

Chamonix Ski Touring / Mountaineering

A collection of galleries giving an insight in to the superb variety of ski touring both in the Chamonix Valley itself and the equally excellent surrounding areas of the Aravis, Italian Val d'Aosta and Swiss Rhone Valley. A ski touring dream!