A month of alpine autumn weather has alternated cool showery storms with fine bright, cold & stable periods. Decent conditions for starting to build snow and ice on the North Faces of the Chamonix Valley.

Mike Brownlow and Rich Bentley found reasonable conditions on the North Face of the Aiguille du Chardonnet climbing the fine icy mixed 'Escarra Route,' (III,4) which Jean Escarra made an impressive first ascent of in August 1929. Photos here. Mike and Rich also engaged in some truly classic alpinism with the traverse of the Chamonix Aiguilles, click the link for the full report.

Jon Griffith and Will Sims made a bold and fast ascent of the Colton Macintyre on the North Face of the Grande Jorasses. Icy but thin early autumn conditions gave some pretty tricky climbing, read more on Jon's blog here.

Earlier in the month Dave Hollinger and I enjoyed squeaky ice and fine conditions on the Grand Pillier d'Angle on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.

The pattern of cool showery storm events with sunny autumn weather looks set to continue which will hopefully only further build snow and ice above 3000m across the range. Bon Chance, good climbing....and let me know if you have any good alpine conditions beta!