High Mountain Guides will be running the full compliment of mountaineering courses in the Scottish Highlands this coming winter season. From introductory training with ice-axe and crampons to technical winter climbing, we will be providing high quality bespoke courses for small groups and individuals.
All courses are based in Fort William and will be starting between Christmas a... more>
Gareth, Sue and I enjoyed the rare treat of topping out and using the highest belay in the UK, the summit trig point on Ben Nevis. This provided a fine climax to the sustained grade V ice of 'Indicator Wall Right Hand'. We were just in time to snatch a fleeting summit view before the rapid westward march of the predicted deteriorating weather engulfed the summit plateau. Sub-zero temperatur... more>
Sue, Gareth and I set off from the Ben Nevis North Face car park in the rain this morning but the promising forecast kept a spring in the weary end of season legs. The weather predictions were spot on and after enjoying 5 fine pitches of sustained grade III ice we topped out to a sun bathed Nevis plateau offering views north to the brown and snowless far west Highlands.
The Red burn ga... more>
Despite the pleasant sunny springlike start to the day on Ben Nevis there was a chilly wind blowing over the plateau and a feeling of winter trying to hang on in there. Forecasts of sub zero temperatures over the weekend and into next week look set to preserve the considerable amount of ice remaining high on the Ben for a while yet.
Michael continued his Mount Vinson (highest peak in A... more>
A sharp overnight frost following a series of cool snowy days saw ice re-building down to 700m or so on Ben Nevis. Even the CIC Hut Crag Cascade had reformed, albeit at a rather more serious proposition than before.
Teams traversing the Carn Mor Dearg Arete today were treated to constant views across to the North Face of Ben Nevis looking pristine. Those on the North Face of Ben Nevis... more>
It always feels good to be back on the North Face of Ben Nevis, even if it is only a week since last being up there.
Michael and I ignored the drizzle as we chatted our way up the Allt a' Mhuillin and looked forward to picking our way up through the steep snow, ice bulges and clean wet rock of Ledge Route.
There was a very mild thaw across most of the mountain and the temperatu... more>
The inclement forecast made for a quiet day on the Ben. There was a shallow layer of fresh snow at the base of the Minus and Orion Faces and a lot of thumping wet rime falling off the crags. One brave team were setting off in to the Maelstrom high on the Orion Face. Rosy cheeks guaranteed!
Neil and I had a good adventure and tough days mountaineering on the Nevis classic, Minus Two Gul... more>
It was a rather damp day on Ben Nevis and driving dreichness at the CIC Hut deterred Neil and I from an attempt on Observatory Ridge.
The prospect of a more sheltered route with cosy cave belays and a low top out on North East Buttress proved a more attractive option and Minus 3 lived up to it's reputation as one of the best Gully climbs on the Mountain. Four sustained pitches followin... more>
Vanishing Gully gives one of the steeper grade V pitches on the Ben and it had a certain Chamonixesque feel today as the superb solid ice snaked it's way up through narrow bounding walls. It is a route with a real atmosphere and gives sustained grade IV climbing with one short sharp grade 5 pitch. As the arms are tiring on this pitch have a think about the first ascent by Marshall and Tiso i... more>
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