14th August, Showery in the Aiguilles Rouges - but still great climbing

As has been the case a lot this summer the weather forecast was wrong on the timings today and it was raining hard whilst we were taking the first lift up the Index chairlift! Diverting from a longer day on the Belvedere we stopped instead at the fine looking 'Tour... more>

Please use this page to follow, and add to, alpine mountaineering conditions reports for the summer 2011 season. To add a conditions post please go to the base of the page and click the 'New Comment' button.

14th August, Matterhorn North Face Guided

Mat Helliker and Steve Potter are just down from climbing the North Face of the M... more>

After two fine ski ascents of Mont Blanc in April and May the summer season kicked off in earnest during the first week of June. Heavy afternoon thunder storms had left fresh snow down to the Tette Rousse at 3167m and a determined approach was required yesterday morning to set off in further cloudy and snowy weather to maximise the forecast improving period of weather.

The arrival at t... more>

The BMG is pleased to announce a new sponsorship deal with Arc'teryx, manufacturer of extremely high quality outdoor clothing. The initial 3 year deal includes Arc'teryx providing a full set of waterproof clothing for new BMG trainees and sponsoring some of the Guides training courses. More details are available on the BMG news page.

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Whilst most folk have long since packed their skis away for the season and turned thoughts to sunny rock climbing, the high mountains of the Alps continue to provide some superb quality ski mountaineering and some great powder turns. At C.4000m on the north side of the Dufourspitze we encountered around 40cms of pristine fresh powder snow and whilst we did not make it to the summit we had so... more>

After a stormy few weeks with widespread thick grey cloud delivering a lot of precipitation, as snow above about 2800m, the mountains of Eastern Turkey were in fine condition for late season ski touring.

I am just back from a 10 day trip guiding with and for UIAGM Mountain Guide Jim Blyth. Apart from enjoying the fantastic fresh Tu... more>

An elevated spring snow line and stella anticyclonic weather has sent many teams up in to the high mountains in search of quality spring ski mountaineering. They don't come any higher in this part of the world than Mont Blanc and, for the last couple of weeks, there has been a well worn track linking the Plan de l'Aiguille to the Grands Mulets Hut to the 'ArĂȘte Royale' on the Dome du Gouter... more>

A week of settled alpine weather has given the ski tourers 'holy grail' combination of blue skies, powder and spring snow turns in the Italian Valle d'Aosta.

Whilst snow amounts are certainly still relatively 'lean' for the time of year it has still been possible to do some great ski touring, put skins on skis and set off from the car at 1500m or above.

The very warm afternoon we... more>

Last weeks stormy foehn winds deposited large dumps of snow across the Italian, Swiss and French Alps and gave some great conditions for those who picked out safe places to ski off-piste and tour. Up to 80cms of snow fell in the Valle d'Aosta and High Swiss Valais with a bit less in the more northerly and westerly Chamonix Valley.

However the great thing about a Chamonix based ski trip... more>

A mid March day with temperatures up to 15C today here in the Chamonix Valley and thoughts are turning to the late winter - spring period which so often gives good icy goulotte and north face climbing. Whilst not great for skiers it has been a fine season so far for the winter alpinist with a lot of ice and blue sky and not too much snow.

If you are interested in getting in on the act... more>

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