Crevasse Rescue Training Whilst Off-Piste Skiing
Here a shovel is used to stop the rope cutting further in to the crevasse edge when the hoisting begins. A prussik has been placed on the live rope to create a 'Z' hoist and offer the rescuer a mechanical advantage. Note that the rescuer near the edge should be attached to the rope for her own safety when approaching the crevasse edge.
Mammut Pulse Transceiver Transmits Between An Iphone & A GPS
How well do you know your transceiver!? In this experiment the effects of an Iphone and GPS next to a Mammut Pulse are monitored. The phone and GPS produce a signal received strongly by the transceiver when in search mode with no other transceiver transmitting close by.
A Multiple Burial Avalanche Scenario
A difficult and complicated task and well worth training for. The multiple burial scenario requires the combined skills of technical avalanche search & rescue techniques as well as a strong element of leadership and group management. The aim is to get all buried victims uncovered as quickly as possible to enhance survival probabilities. This is stressful and hard work...and a great training exercise!
A Large Crevasse in the Bernina, Swiss Alps
As seen by a Mountain Guide who had just fallen in to it! Even if many other parties are skinning across a glacier unroped that does not mean you have to. It is often worth keeping the rope very handy so the team can attach to it quickly and negotiate crevassed glaciers more safely.
Roped Glacier Travel Above the Vallee Blanche
A team has elected to rope together to skin through the Combe de la Vierge on the Glacier du Geant. A wise decision as even with skis on there are no guarantees of not falling in to a crevasse.
Glacier Skiing in Antarctica
When skiing on a glacier the harness is always worn even if the rope is not being used. Each skier carries at least one ice screw and slings / Karabiners on their harness so that they could secure themselves to the wall of a crevasse should they fall in. By stabilising an already bad situation in this way a secondary crevasse fall is prevented.
45cm Avalanche Crown Wall on a 35 Degree Slope At 2700m In The Italian Alps
The debris from this avalanche was several days old but covered the tracks of a popular ski tour above the ski resort of La Thuile. Time spent planning a ski route in advance with consideration to snow conditions, weather and terrain is time extremely well spent and often the most difficult decision of the day is 'where to ski?'
Steep Skiing in Antarctica
Being acutely aware of the terrain is a must for the ski mountaineer. What angle is the slope we are on? What angle is the slope above us? How do we measure slope angle? Inclinometer? Ski pole trigonometery? Iphone app? Instinct? What are the relevant angles determining avalanche terrain?
Great Powder Skiing High On The Monte Rosa...One At A Time
The 3 Skiers are choosing to ski this slope of C.30 degrees one at a time to minimise the overall loading of the slope and watch each other providing immediate back up should the slope release an avalanche.
The Ski Mountaineer Must Be Very Familiar With Their Own Transceiver
Here the Mammut Pulse is in Phase I of the search where no signal is being received. The avalanche debris must now be covered in a methodical but swift and efficient action until Phase II begins at the point of detecting a transmitting transceiver.
Phase II of the Transceiver Search Rapidly Narrows the Search Area
The 'flux lines' of the transmitting transceiver are followed along an eliptical curve. This phase should be completed rapidly until the fine search begins which calls for a more steady, methodical approach. Whilst this is happening companions are constructing probes and shovels in order to take over once the transceiver search phases are complete.
The Fine Search Calls for a 'Cool Head'
Once you are within a C.3m radius of the buried victims transceiver the Mammut Pulse switches to the 'fine search' (phase III). This involves a methodical narrowing of the search area until you are satisfied that you are as close as possible. At this point you order the probe operator to 'probe here' and the search switches from using transceivers to a probe then shovels.
Steep Kick Turns on the First Morning of the First Day of The Haute Route
Allocate time to practice and refresh your kick turn skills so you are efficient and secure when you really need to make that turn. Be realistic as to when slope angle and snow conditions dictate that you can't practically do them any more. Then the time has come to put ski crampons on or put your skis on your pack and go in to mountaineering mode.
Skinning with Ski Crampons and Ice Axe on the ascent of Mont Colmet, Valle d'Aoste
A short but exposed, icy passage dictates a transition from normal skinning to provide greater security with the use of harscheisen (ski crampons) and an ice axe instead of a ski pole.
Yet Another Ski Mountaineering 'Transition' on the Ski Ascent of Mont Blanc
Like the triathlete the ski mountaineer must embrace the notion of 'swift transitions'. The ski ascent of Mont Blanc is a classic example of where many styles of ski mountaineering must be used. Here, on the Dome du Gouter at dawn, crampons are packed away; skis come off the pack and we go from mountaineering to skinning mode.
The Mountaineering Part of Ski Mountaineering
Being efficient at simple skills like stowing your skis on a pack and putting crampons on are important basics of ski mountaineering. Here on the Bosses Ridge, Mont Blanc, the skis and poles are efficiently stashed away; crampons placed on boots and an ice axe in the hand. Steady progress is made on steep ground and skis are can be put back on at the summit.
Ski Descent of The North Face of Mont Blanc
Like in alpine mountaineering route finding is an under rated but highly valuable skill to the ski tourer. Often the descent route can be viewed from the ascent in which case a thorough visual reconnaissance should be made. Here on the N. face of Mont Blanc crevasses, seracs and steep slopes all have to be factored in to make a detailed route choice.
Skiing Through Serac Debris
Objective hazards like ice seracs call for an observant but cool headed approach. Here the hanging ice cliffs of Mont Blanc's 'Petit Plateau' pose an obvious hazard to the passing skier. This is where you need to ski swiftly but steadily and in control to avoid any delays due to falls etc.
The Ski Belay
The ski mountaineer has a much greater asset for producing a snow anchor than the summer alpiniste who only has an ice axe to bury. Skis provide a large surface area and, if well constructed in good snow, provide an adequate anchor for safeguarding a hazard or a belay for a crevasse rescue. Here the ski edges have been padded with a ski strap to protect the anchor cord.
