High Mountain Guides / What we do / UK Mountaineering & Climbing / Scottish Winter Climbing / Guided Winter Climbing

Guided Winter Climbing

Guided Winter Climbing in Glencoe. Ordinary Route (IV), Central Buttress, Stob Coire Nan Lochain

If you already have some winter climbing experience why not hire a ‘High Mountain Guide’ and actually get on those classic winter routes you have dreamed about. We are able to offer guided winter climbing experiences from Scottish grade I to V, (or VI to suitably experienced clients in perfect conditions, rare!).

That covers many of the routes in the brilliant and highly recommended coffee table winter climber’s book – “Cold Climbs”, if further inspiration was needed.

Here are a few route suggestions, both ice and mixed, for some fantastic guided winter climbing experiences:

  • Ben Nevis - Tower Ridge, Green Gully, Comb Gully, Glovers Chimney, Wendigo, JP is Back, The Orion Face, Point Five Gully, Smith's Route
  • Glencoe - North Buttress (Buchaille Etive Mor), Ordinary Route (Stob Coire Nan Lochan), Deep Cut Chimney (Bidean Nam Bian)
  • Aonach Mor - Left Twin, Jet Stream, White Shark, Icicle Gully, Morwind, Turf Walk
  • Creag Meagaidh, South Pipe Gully, Pumpkin, Last Post, The Wand
  • Northern Cairngorms - Route Major, Hidden Chimney Direct, Deep Cut Chimney (Hells Lum), The Seam, Savage Slit, Patey's Route

Conditions

Many of the classic Scottish ice climbs are highly conditions dependent. Come with your tick list by all means but try and have an open mind to alternatives. Big ice routes are notoriously fickle both in terms of the quantity and quality of ice build-up and the invariably steep snowy approach and exit, which can be exposed to avalanche. Decisions as to whether they are safe on any given day of the winter can be tricky….better to hire a Guide!

Don’t be disappointed if a safer alternative objective is offered. Snowed up rock buttresses, or mixed climbing can provide a superbly rewarding winter climbing experience and are often more likely to be both in condition and safe. (But your nice new axes and crampons may need sharpening afterwards!)

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