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Mont Blanc - The Routes

This northern view of Mont Blanc shows the Aiguille du Midi (in cloud on left) 'Trois Monts' route as the left hand skyline, the Traverse of the Aiguille du Bionassay as the right hand skyline and the Gouter 'normal' route just right of centre

The five main mountaineering routes on Mont Blanc

North West (Gouter) Ridge

Because any route on Mont Blanc is a tough mountain undertaking and, for many, a summit attempt will come very early in their mountaineering career

The Ascent of Mont Blanc with the Aiguille de Bionassay beyond, Chamonix

our standard Mont Blanc course focuses on climbing the Mountain via its north western flank. This 'Gouter' side is accessed from Les Houches or St. Gervais / Le Fayet and presents the most straightforward and 'sure'of all the climbing routes on the mountain. Although this is by far the most popular route it is still not without some difficulty and objective danger, especially in the infamous 'Grand Couloir' where stonefall can be a great hazard,

There is also, contrary to the popular opinion of the ascent being a 'Glacier Trek' some rock scrambling up the West Face of the Aiguille du Gouter and this looks fairly impressive, intimidating even, when viewed from the Tette Rousse Hut. The scramble is however not as steep or hard as it looks. It is equipped with the odd bit of metal cable and, as long as the correct route is taken, not particularly difficult although icy conditions or poor weather can rapidly turn it in to a formidable mountaineering challenge.

Once the Gouter Hut is reached the route above is all on snow & ice and is generally less steep. It is only after the crossing of the shoulder on the Dome du Gouter is reached that the summit can finally be seen, and it is not uncommon for folk to exclaim "Wow! Mont Blanc is a Big Mountain". Big indeed and whilst the technical difficulties on this route are not great - the sense of scale and commitment when climbing this Giant of the Alps is well felt.

The final ascent of the Bosses Ridge is slightly exposed, exhilarating and often, literally, breath taking both for the superb panoramic views and the cold thin air experienced at nearly 5000m!

This route is generally less prone to avalanche danger than the 'Trois Monts' as the snow slopes crossed are both less steep overall and often on a ridge. This lends the additional advantage that often just one day of good weather is required to climb the mountain whereas some of the other routes will retain dangerous or poor snow conditions for longer after a storm, even during good weather.

Les 'Trois Monts' / North East Ridge from The Cosmiques Hut or Aiguille du Midi Station

Going well on Mont Blanc's 'Trois Monts' Route above the Col de la Brenva. Mont Maudit & Aiguille Verte (far right) beyond.

Despite the huge height gain offered to Mont Blanc climbers commencing their ascent with a 'kick-start' from the Aiguille du Midi lift, this route is by no means the easy option that its very high starting point (3800m) may suggest. The traverse of 'Les Trois Monts' (the 3 peaks of Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit & Mont Blanc itself) is a spectacular high alpine journey yet with that comes big mountain commitment with steep & sustained snow slopes and great exposure to the weather.

On this route very good fitness and movement skills are required in equal measure along with knowledge of prevailing weather and snow conditions. Get it right and the rewards of this mountain journey are great but high above the Col de Brenva is no place to be caught in a storm and the crossing of Mont Blanc du Tacul may well not be a safe option after fresh snow. Avalanche risk on this route can be considerable both from the steep snow slopes crossed and the ice seracs hanging above.

Whereas the main objective danger on the Gouter Route is stone fall in the Grand Couloir on this route it is ice fall and avalanches. The principal

This steep snow and ice slope accessing the shoulder on Mont Maudit is a key passage on the ascent of Mont Blanc via the 'Trois Monts'

base for this route is the Cosmiques Hut at a lofty 3613m. Many folk will spend the night before and after the summit day attempt at the hut although fast parties can complete the climb by starting from the morning's first Midi lifts - then either returning to the hut or continuing the traverse over the summit and down via the Gouter Route.

In completing the 'Trois Monts' route The vast majority of climbers do not actually visit the summits of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Maudit although a very fast party can do this during the ascent - always keeping a wary eye on energy levels remaining to complete the descent safely and swiftly.

The initial long and weaving ascent of Mt Blanc du Tacul's shoulder usually takes an intricate line around crevasses and seracs and would present difficult route finding without a track and in the dark if you were not familiar with the route.

Once the shoulder is crossed the traverse to Col Maudit provides a welcome respite before the difficulties start again with the long & steep ascent to the shoulder on Mont Maudit. This culminates in a 50-55 degree snow & ice slope usually ascended as a couple of 'pitches' of climbing. Bare ice here can present difficulties although there are often in-situ fixed ropes in place of highly variable quality.

Again the reward for these efforts is another traverse towards the Col de la Brenva. This feels like high mountain country indeed and the atmosphere only gathers on the final steep ascent of the Mur de la Cote. Above this, all that remains is a steady ascent via the easy but tiring upper snow slopes, often accompanied by heavy breathing in the search for oxygen and the junction with the Bosses Ridge, right at the summit of Mont Blanc.

The Italian Route on 'Monte Bianco'

Folk seeking relative solitude away from the busier flanks of the normal routes on the French side are advised to head south, through the Mont

Taken from the Ascent of the Aiguille du Bionassay, this shows the wild and remote Italian flank of the mountain requiring a lot of leg work to access from Courmayeur and the Val Veny.

Blanc tunnel and in to the immense glacial valleys of Veny, Miage and Dome. These are 3 huge glaciers that must be traversed in order to ascend the mountain from the wilder Italian side.

This expedition has an almost Himalayan feel and there is the catch - the grunt factor! There is no mechanical uplift for the 'Italian Job', just a very long walk to the (lovely) Gonella hut (3071m) and an even longer ascent from there to the summit (12 hours round trip). The technical difficulty is no greater than the normal routes on the French side - but the physical factors of height gain, distance covered and time taken for the summit day are all that bit longer making the sum of the parts a big, rewarding and tough mountain journey.

More details, including course dates, are on our page 'Climb Mont Blanc' from Italy'.

The Traverse via the Aiguille du Bionnassay

The Bionnassay looms over the Arve Valley / Geneva approach to the Mont Blanc Massif and is rightly famous for its superb long and exposed snow

Here a large cornice is passed on the Italian side however it is often possible to complete much of the traverse on the crest itself.

crest. This approach to Mont Blanc is the most technical of the 5 classic routes described here and provides a magnificent high level alpine traverse. The route could even be extended further when combined with a journey over the Domes de Miage, Mont Blanc & the Midi Plan traverse finishing down the Vallee Blanche. This would take a week!

Acclimatised and fit parties however can complete the route in a 2 day round trip from the Valley. Whilst there are no lifts on the Contamines side of the mountain a taxi can be taken to the lovely Chalet de Miage. A coffee here provides an extremely pleasant start to the trek which also has an expedition feel as you start through lovely alpine meadows and steadily wind a way up to the Refuge de Plan Glacier. Lunch can be taken here whilst eyeing up the North Face of the Dome de Miage. Vow to come back and climb the Metrier Spur one day. It looks good. Our route up to the Durier Hut is less aesthetic yet equally direct. A rapid crossing of the Plan Glacier followed by a sustained and fairly 'scruffy' scramble up for afternoon tea at this small, cosy and superbly positioned hut, well run by local Contamines guardienne Manon.

An early start is taken next morning so good snow conditions are found on the snow crests of the Bionassay and, besides, there is a long day ahead if Mont Blanc is to be climbed and descended. Another option would be to stay a 2nd night in the Tette Rousse, Gouter or Cosmiques Huts.

At 'AD-' the ascent of the Bionassay's South Ridge is the most technical section of any route described here but it is not too hard for those familiar with other alpine AD routes, and the quality is high. Enjoyable snow & mixed scrambling up narrow ridges and chimneys. All engrossing but never too tricky if the correct line is taken. Quite suddenly the rocks give way to the perfect snow cone of the summit...and the sinuous connecting ridge over the 'Pitons des Italien' and on to the Dome du Gouter can be seen in all its glory.

The difficulties experienced along the ridge are heavily dependent on snow conditions. Having both traversed hard ice whilst front pointing sideways along the ridge and cruised along in a fine track along a wide snowy ridge I can highly recommend getting some good info about current conditions before setting off! Either way the traverse of the Bionnassay provides a memorable mountain experience and the glittering additional prize of the Mont Blanc summit guarantees to have the hairs standing up on the back of the neck - with relief, satisfaction and elation all in good measure.

North Ridge of the Dome du Gouter from The Grands Mulets Refuge

Popular with ski mountaineers in the spring this route has rather fallen from modern fashion for summer climbers on Mont Blanc. It is a route with

The line of approach to the Grands Mulets Hut and on to the Arete Royale is marked

an interesting history as Balmat & Paccard climbed it in June 1786.....yes, that is 1786! The pair went on to make the first ascent of Mont Blanc but with the North ridge of the Dome already done this gives it a legitimate claim to be the first high alpine climb ever done!

The route is undertaken from the Grands Mulets Hut which generally remains open until mid-summer. Hut bookings are usually much less of an issue here than at the busier Cosmiques, Gouter and Tette Rousse Huts just around the corner.

The journey from the Plan de l'Aiguille across the heavily crevassed 'La Jonction' glacier provides an engaging approach to the Grands Mulets Hut. Once in-situ with a cold drink on the Hut's sunny terrace, a fine view can be enjoyed of the route above, which will be climbed during the night.

After a vague lower glacier section the route narrows in to an excellent snow ridge - The 'Arete Royale'. This includes a sustained 45-50 degree section which calls for a steady hand, not to mention solid calves! Good snow conditions are required here for a swift and enjoyable ascent but these can easily be checked with a pair of binoculars from Chamonix high street!

The top of the arete gives way to easier angled glacial snow slopes and a shallow traverse leads to the junction with the Gouter Route at the Col du Dome, just before the steep ascent to the Vallot Hut. From here it is usually around 2 hours up the Bosses Ridge to the summit.

Whilst the ascent route could be reversed back to the Grands Mulets many teams will prefer to continue the traverse either back over the Trois Mont to the Cosmiques or down the Gouter Route to the Gouter or Tette Rousse Huts.

The ascent of the Petit and Grand Plateaus from the Grands Mulets Hut can not really be recommended due to the substantial objective dangers presented by the enormous hanging ice seracs situated above much of the route.

Technical Climbing Routes

Not content with being the highest mountain in the Alps, by some margin, Mont Blanc also has some huge faces giving long and exacting

Monte Rosa Massif & Matterhorn visible in background.

snow, mixed, ice and rock climbs. In addition to superlative alpine routes like the Peutery Integrale (longest in the Alps) and 'Divine Providence (hardest in the Alps when first climbed in 1984) there are many other classic tough alpine mountaineering routes that logically lead to the summit of Mont Blanc. Some of these are desribed below. Most are from the Italian side as, unusually for the Alps, it is the South Face of Mont Blanc which presents the highest cliffs and greatest technical challenges.

  • The Peutery Ridge, starting in the Italian Val Veny and finishing on the summit, is perhaps the longest climb in the Alps. (D+ and 2450m from the Monzino Hut)
  • The Brenva Spur (D) 1350m from the Col de la Fourche Bivi Hut
  • Innominata Ridge (D) 1000m from the Eccles Hut which is PD+ and 1280m from the Monzino Hut
  • Tournette Spur (D-) 1450m from the Quintino Sella Hut
  • Brouillard Ridge (D-) 1700m from the Quintino Sella Hut

Comments

29th September 2016, Very Good Early Autumn Conditions On Mont Blanc Gouter Route

All five of our climbers reached the summit in great style this morning to be greeted by a chilly but beautiful early autumnal dawn across the high Northern Alps. The shadow of Mont Blanc was cast strongly down in to the shady Arve Valley over 4000m below. The descent was made steadily via a break at Gouter Hut and then the easy but long & rough walk back to Bionassay. A great day on the hill and very satisfying end to the summer season on Mont Blanc. Again showing that for the fit and well prepared late September can be a great time to climb. This is not our last course of the year as we will be trying again later in October so are hoping for an Indian summer then!

29th August 2016, Late Summer Dry Conditions On Mont Blanc Normal Routes

Good weather has seen many ascents of Mont Blanc from both the Chamonix side - Aiguille du Midi / Cosmiques Hut and St Gervais side - Gouter / Tete Rousse Huts. Upper snow conditions have been fine but the late summer hot and sunny weather has led to a deterioration of the conditions in the Grand Couloir where lots of stone fall has been reported. Like last summer, even in dry conditions stone fall can develop due to hot weather and this has led the Prefet de Haute Savoie to issue a statement advising great care in the ascent via this route, paying particular attention to time of day and weather / temperature to assess the conditions. On the 3 Monts route the ascent to the shoulder on Mont Maudit is exposed to serac fall, currently looking unstable and the crossing of a tricky crevasse.

3rd August 2016, Good Summer Conditions On Mont Blanc

As august arrives snow conditions remain good high on Mont Blanc with many teams enjoying the ascent from many different routes up the mountain. All the normal routes via Tete Rousse, Gouter, Gonella & Cosmiques have been climbed as as teams still climbing from the Grands Mulets hut via the North Ridge of the Dome du Gouter. There has been some stone fall in the Grand Couloir as usual but not as bad as last year when the Gouter Hut closed.

Teams have also been climbing the Bionassay traverse and Inominata Ridge. A great alpine summer season so far!

22nd June 2016, Snowy & Sunny Summit Day On Mont Blanc

The first 30C day of the summer alpine season saw a big track extending from the Tete Rousse to the Gouter Hut and all the way up to the summit with many teams enjoying the good conditions and remarkably good early season snow cover. On the Italian side the Gonella Hut is now open but with no track leading above the hut, although one team are trying tonight.

7th June 2016

Two teams to the summit from the Tete Rousse Hut this morning, one from Montreal and one from Nottingham / Derby. Good snowy conditions and good going with a decent track in place. The approach to the Tete Rousse was made by the railway tracks and then normal route up the steep and snowy moraine ridge with the path well banked out in places.

10th October 2015, Fantastic Autumnal Ascent Of Mont Blanc

A long and brilliant day in good conditions, climbing a physical 3000m of ascent from Bellevue to the summit and down to the Gouter Hut in one day. We started via a taxi ride to Bellevue as all the lifts and trains are shut at this time of year. The Gouter hut was also closed but the winter room was open and provided us with a great little base camp for the climb. Snow conditions were good and there was a track from the steep ridge / path leading up to the Tete Rousse Hut. We eventually caught the Polish team who had made the track on the Dome du Gouter and then we were in to almost pristine snow conditions leading to the summit. One fast French climber had also made the summit that morning, from the valley up and down which was an impressively swift & stylish ascent.

We steadily made our way up the Bosses Ridge in the early evening sun and topped out just at sunset with magnificent evening light. The windless night time descent was enjoyed despite the tired bodies and the chicken curry at the Gouter Hut went down well! Next morning the Gouter Rib was descended in enjoyable snowy conditions with a good track now leading all the way down & across a pleasantly silent Grand Couloir. A great trip up Mont Blanc with tough but rewarding autumnal conditions. With several teams heading up the mountain and a good forecast for the next few days the track will become more established and conditions should remain good until the next poor / windy weather arrives.

24 September 2015, Autumn Season On Mont Blanc

The Gouter Hut will remain open until mid October this year to make up for the weeks of closure during the high summer season. The extended season can be taken advantage of via the online hut booking system and there is even a reduction in price for the quiter October weeks. This can be a fantastic time to climb the mountain with tougher but quieter and often more pristine snow conditions. We already have one team booked in for a summit attempt during the 2nd week of October and look forward to the extra challenge presented by an autumn ascent of the mountain.

Recent snow falls have added around 30cms of fresh snow at Gouter Hut / Aiguille du Midi height and this along with strong winds up high today will make for very difficult conditions from the Gouter and presumably no body climbing from the Cosmiques hut due to the elevated avalanche risk on the 3 Monts route. Cool, sunny weather is forecast for the next few days so teams from the Gouter Hut at least, will no doubt put the track back in all the way to the summit.

September 4th 2015, Cool Down & Good Conditions On Mont Blanc Gouter Route

The Gouter hut has re-opened after a month or so of closure due to the risk of stone fall in the Grand Couloir. We were paying close attention to the conditions and appreciated the recent fresh snow and general cooling of the mountain. The Grand Couloir had become dry again during the last couple of days of cool but sunny weather. Having spent a pleasant night at the Refuge Nid d'Aigle we climbed to the Gouter Hut via the crossing of the couloir mid morning. It was dry but calm and the ascent was incident free until we reached the old Gouter Hut where we helped with the rescue of a young woman who had broken her leg in a slip on ice behind the old hut. As the weather was really closing in with fresh snow on a stiff northerly wind, there was no helicopter coming and we used the rescue stretcher from the new Gouter Hut to effect the evacuation to the new hut.

Conditions & weather above the hut were good next morning albeit with a continuing cold northerly wind and we were glad of our 2nd night at the Gouter hut meaning we made a leisurely ascent to the summit during the warmer part of the day. The weather again came in that night meaning the descent of the Gouter Rib the next morning was made in cold & snowy conditions. Enjoyable snowy scrambling and zero stone fall was noted in the couloir.

17th July 2015, The Heatwave Takes It's Toll on Mont Blanc

Difficult conditions on the mountain at the moment. High stone fall risk in the Grand Couloir due to the extended heat wave and some tricky icy sections on the 3 Monts Route. We are currently planning some good alternatives for Mont Blanc teams arriving at the moment.

Detailed report of the current situation on the mountain on our news page here:

http://www.highmountainguides.com/index.php/eng/News/Chamonix-Alpine-Climbing-Reports-Summer-2015#MontBlancConditions

14th September 2014, Excellent Late Summer Conditions High on Mont Blanc

Enjoyable ascent in excellent conditions from the Gouter Hut this morning & down to catch the train from the Nid d'Aigle in plenty of time on the last day of the season which the train is running. Conditions in the couloir are a little mixed and there was some stone fall late yesterday evening. Excellent snowy conditions high on the mountain - looks good for autumn!

28th June, Up from the Tete Rousse, down to the Gouter

Well done to our 6 person Climb Mont Blanc team who are just down from a fine ascent via the Northern route on Mt Blanc. After a 3 day training period with ascents of the Weissmies & Allalinhorn the team enjoyed an easy day 4 up to the Tete Rousse Hut. The summit day 5 is never 'easy' from the Tete Rousse - but with the knowledge of a bed booked at the Gouter ones time can be taken and the ascent & summit celebration enjoyed without the pressure of the scrambling descent and crossing of the Grand Couloir to negotiate. The final descent on day 6 is done with relatively fresh legs and a spring in the step. Concentration is required but the tramway du Mt Blanc is reached early on and all that remains is the rest of the day relaxing, recuperating & celebrating in Chamonix!

Friday 13th June, Mont Blanc Traverse

Warm weather during the day but a reasonable overnight freeze up high and existing track gave decent snow conditions for the traverse of Mont Blanc via the 3 Monts route & down via the Gouter route. The 'voie normale on Mont Blanc du Tacul has a fairly impressive looking steep wall low down on the ascent which is fortunately easier to climb than it looks! The upper tracks cut both hard right, as usual, to traverse round to the shoulder as well as there being a track in from the top of the triangle which teams were using both as descent from routes on the triangle as well as for the ascent of the Tacul.

The track on Mont Maudit is also currently different to most seasons in that it climbs high on the north face before traversing out right to the ridge really close to the actual summit as opposed to the normal steep slope to the shoulder much lower down. Decent snowy conditions then from the Col de la Brenva, over the summit, along the Bosses ridge and all the way down to the crossing of the Grand Couloir which is still quite snowy.

Generally fairly quiet conditions on the mountain but the huts are fully booked for much of next week. Our Mont Blanc courses are now full until September.

26th October 2013, Good Autumn Climbing Conditions on Mont Blanc

Lovely warm autumn weather has taken the fresh snow line well back up the hill to nearly 3000m. Plenty of fresh snow remains above that but with a track already in place conditions were good on Mont Blanc today. A Polish team pushed high towards the summit but were forced to retreat in high winds. With snow forecast tomorrow there will be some more fresh down to 2900m with rain below that. The forecast for next week is looking pretty good!

6th August 2013, Fine Conditions on Mont Blanc French Side

Just down from an enjoyable ascent of Mont Blanc via the Gouter Route and 2 nights in the new Gouter Refuge. The Grand Couloir was relatively quiet and crossed without incident late am on the way up, from the first tramway and early am on the way down, after a 7am breakfast at the Gouter. The upper mountain was in fine condition with an excellent track and well snowy conditions with almost no exposed bare ice. Many teams also came over the 3 Monts route from both the Cosmiques Hut and first Aiguille du Midi lift.

One team even traversed the mountain from the first Midi lift to the summit and down to catch an afternoon train down from the Nid d'Aigle. Climbing Mont Blanc without a hut night - quite a novelty!

As of the 7/8th of August a storm will have put down a fair bit of fresh snow and prevailing bad weather is preventing any teams summiting. However, on the Gouter route at least, this will settle quickly and with the return to good weather from Saturday the mountain will quickly come back in to good condition.

9th July 2013, Enjoyable Swift Ascent of Gouter Route & Excellent New Refuge!

Unsurprisingly the new Gouter Refuge is a massive improvement on the old one. Smart, pleasant modern hut, smiling staff and good food were all a very welcome addition to our rapid ascent of the Gouter Normal route in near perfect conditions, at least higher on the mountain.

The recent warm spell has stripped much of the snow from the Gouter Rib allowing the middle section to be climbed without crampons. A fair amount of snow has also been stripped from the Grand Couloir and, in response to the recently revealed rock / mixed patches, a few stones were seen flying down the couloir.

We left the Gouter Hut at 0230 this morning and were on the summit not long after 0530. A good swift ascent from Andy putting us first on the summit and this, along with a thin layer of fresh snow, gave a real pristine feel to our pre - during and just post dawn ascent.

The tramway du Mont Blanc is now on its summer time table with more trains and the last descent being 7pm.

5th July 2013, Excellent Snow Conditions On All Mont Blanc 'Normal' Routes....

Teams were 'making hay' whilst the snow froze and stars twinkled this morning on most of the classic snow routes up Mont Blanc.

A slightly frustrating day of weather watching at the Tete Rousse Hut yesterday was rewarded this morning with a perfect dawn and crunchy snow this morning. The wind had died down overnight and It was a pleasure to watch two head lamps bobbing their way up the NW Face of the Bionnassay during our steady ascent of the Dome du Gouter.

Teams were also cruising the classic snow arete of the Bionnassay and making classic traverses between the Italian Gonella Route and the Chamonix / Cosmiques Trois Monts route.

1st July 2013, All Open on Mont Blanc

The first day of July feels like it has ushered in the high summer season on Mont Blanc. A perfect summit day with a large track extending up from the Gouter Refuge to the summit, well seen all the way down the Arve Valley. Although the Bellevue cable car is closed for the season due to a fire which damaged the cables - the Tramway du Mont Blanc is open and can be taken from LE Fayet to the Nid d'Aigle. From here it is normally just a 2 hour walk to the Tete Rousse Hut although currently a bit longer with the large amounts of snow still around.

22/8/12 Dangerous Conditions on Mont Blanc's Gouter Route

Numerous recent reports have come in of significant rock falls in Mont Blanc's Gouter couloir including a large one this morning which produced enough rock debris to spill out of the Couloir and down on to the Tete Rousse Glacier. The Tete Rousse camp / bivvi site has been closed and climbers are recommended to avoid this route for now as the very warm weather continues. Reasonable conditions are reported on the Cosmiques / Trois Monts route and more details of this to follow as we shall be attempting this route tomorrow.

26th July 2012, High Summer Summit Conditions on Mont Blanc

A week of perfect summer weather here in the Chamonix Valley is just coming to an end. There are large tracks on both the Gouter and Trois Monts routes on Mont Blanc as well as teams reporting good conditions on the tougher traverse of the Bionassay. After a showery and cooler weekend it looks like things may set fair again for more classic summer summit weather next week.

16th July 2012, Fine Conditions Reported on Mont Blanc's 'Arete Royale' Route

French Mountain Guide and celebrated alpiniste 'Christophe Profit' reported very good conditions on the North spur of the Dome du Gouter today and decent conditions to access the Grand Mulets Hut from the Plan de l'Aiguille across the 'Jonction'. This elegant snow spur is often taken by skiers in spring bound for the summit of Mont Blanc and presents an aesthetic and relatively objectively safe route up Mont Blanc, as long as the Jonction can be negotiated which generally becomes quite complicated during the high summer. The Grand Mulets Hut is open until the end of July and provides an interesting alternative to it's two more crowded alternative Mont Blanc 'normal routes' on the northern French side of Mont Blanc.

18th June 2012, Good Conditions on the Italian Route on Mont Blanc

The Gaurdian at the Gonella Hut is reporting excellent snowy conditions on the Italian 'Monte Bianco' Voie Normale right now. This is a long and physical but interesting alternative to the busier French routes and the hut is a lot easier to get a booking at too!

16th June 2012, Perfect Summit Day via the Gouter Hut

Excellent weather and good early season snowy conditions today both in the Grand Couloir and high on the Bosses Ridge. A perfect Mont Blanc summit day.

6th June 2012, Heavy Snow on the Mont Blanc Trois Monts Route

After our experience of heavy trail breaking on the Gouter Route yesterday we were back up at the Col du Midi today enjoying the fresh, pristine conditions and making the most of our last day by doing some classic Chamonix Mountaineering on the Cosmiques Arete & Arete Laurence. The Cosmiques flank of Mont Blanc du Tacul was plastered in fresh snow and there were only a few tentative attempts at ascending it. One team did succeed in making a ski ascent of the face and later on a team on foot was working hard putting in a deep track in the fresh soft snow. No teams got higher on the Trois Mont route and no tracks could be seen crossing the Mont Maudit shoulder, across on the Gouter Route or looking down to the Grand Mulets hut and route via the North Spur of the Dome de Gouter.

4th June 2012, Wintery Early Summer Conditions on Mont Blanc's Gouter Route

Our arrival at the Tete Rousse Hut yesterday coincided with the start of heavy downpours turning to snow around the altitude of the Hut (3167m). These would continue throughout the evening, night and in to this morning leaving around 15cm of fresh snow on top of a deep unfrozen base. A tough trail breaking combination!

Our approach to the Hut was aided by Laurent and his 4X4 'Miage Taxi' who took us from parking 'Crozat' above Bionassay to Bellevue. Walking around Mont Lachat from here we were able to then walk up the train tracks as it was a Sunday and no work was underway on the new tunnel. We met a couple of teams who had profited from yesterday's excellent summit weather & conditions. This was not too be for us and after a slow trail breaking ascent to the Grand Couloir this morning, in deep soft snow, we turned around and made a speedy descent down in to the very wet and green valley.

N.b the 'echelles' section of this 'Are' path from Bionassay to the Nid d'Aigle are not yet equipped. There are steps in place but no handrail.

2nd June 2012, Perfect Summit Day on Mont Blanc

A few lucky teams enjoying fine early summer weather and summiting Mont Blanc today. Conditions reported as generally very good on the Trois Monts route although currently with a few very short but quite steep snow walls on the ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Good to get the summit in today as it looks like the weather is taking a turn to cloudy, wet and quite windy for the next couple of days.

Start of the 2012 Summer Season on Mont Blanc

Whilst the Gouter & Tete Rousse Refuges both open on the 1st June the track up Mont Blanc via this route is open already. A large 'snow motorway' could be seen above the Gouter Hut today as teams take advantage of the fine early season snow conditions and good weather. Many teams are also skiing the mountain from both the Grand Mulets Hut and Aiguille du Midi.

Whilst the huts open in a few days time neither the Tramway du Mont Blanc or Bellevue ski lift will open for several weeks. This long approach from the valley lends a real expedition feel to the ascent and certainly helps to keep the crowds down!

10th August 2011, Mont Blanc Conditions Update

We reached just above the Vallot Hut in good conditions yesterday before running out of steam and a British party were evacuated from the hut by a PGHM helicopter rescue team. Today was a stunning and calmer summit day, but still cool. Many teams reached the summit. The meteo remains superb for tomorrow and another perfect summit day is on the cards.

Note that there is a new section of cable at the very base of the Gouter rock rib once the Grand Couloir has been crossed in ascent. This is a bit steeper and a bit further right than before meaning that the cables (and people on them!) are less exposed to rock fall from the Couloir. There was also a long climbing rope in-situ across the couloir fixed to some new bolts at either side of the couloir. This was quite a handy addition but will presumably not last that long before it is trashed by rockfall. Bring on the Grand Couloir tunnel!

30th June 2011 Birthday Summit on Mont Blanc

After a rather 'driech' (Scottish for wet / grey / cloudy weather!) start conditions improved to a breezy but fine summit day (and the guides birthday!) with good conditions throughout the upper mountain. The Grand Couloir is getting a lot more mixed and the snow cover rapidly depleting. There were a number of rockfalls coming down the couloir by mid-afternoon, the time of our descent, however the soft snow was generally taking any momentum out of the rock fall and despite teams crossing coinciding with rocks falling no one seemed to get hit.

Good to see Owen & Tim (British Guides) on the Bosses Arete who had made a long, tough trail breaking ascent of the Pope route from the Italian Gonella Hut. Finishing with a descent to the Cosmiques gave a long high level traverse of the mountain. A number of teams made the ascent from the Col du Midi and reported reasonable conditions but, as ever, worrying seracs on the ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

First Mont Blanc Ascent of Our 2011 Season....(Not on skis!)

Fine conditions for our Mont Blanc ascent yesterday. An early breakfast was taken and we left the Tette Rousse at 0200 as heavy thunderstorms were forecast as likely for the afternoon. There was a good track across the Grand Couloir and we took crampons off for the lower section of the Gouter Ridge before putting them back on for the upper section to the Hut.

The track above the Gouter Hut now goes well right on the initial open slopes of the Dome du Gouter North Flank Glacier. This is currently a good line as it avoids the very open crevassing further left. The slopes above and below the Vallot Hut were in good snowy shape with a decent track.

We turned around on the Bosses Ridge due to tired legs in the team and just made it back to the Bellevue Telecabine before the storm truly kicked in at about 1600. The descent from the Tette Rousse was made easier by taking the snow slopes close to the Bionassay Glacier rather than the normal path, still some half decent bum slides to be had!

Some teams made the ascent of Mont Blanc from the Cosmiques Hut with at least one team completing the traverse.

August 2010, A Spirited Attempt on The Mission

Joined by Swiss Alps based British Mountain Guide Paul 'Dobber' Wright, Rob and a team of 4 fit young London city bankers warmed up in tough windy, cloudy and snowy conditions on the Tour and Trient glaciers and mountain refuges. Against all odds and on a highly inclement forecast a tough trail breaking ascent was made of Mont Blanc. The team were all properly tired after this and although great fun, canyoning on the rest day was probably a 'bridge too far!'

The ascent of the Dom went well from the amazing applestrudel at the Dom Hut to fine conditions and a big mountain atmosphere on the Festigrat. The large amount of vertical height gain on this climb (the highest of any alpine mountain summit from the valley - no lifts here!) took its toll and instead of undertaking the grueling ascent of the Monte Rosa we returned to Chamonix for some 'Croissant and Café Alpinism'!

Good effort guys...but the first successful completion of the Mission remains for the taking. Who shall step forward?

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