High Mountain Guides / What we do / Mountaineering in Chamonix / Becoming an Alpinist

Becoming an Alpinist

Chamonix North Face Mixed Climbing Training on our 'Becoming an Alpinist' Course

On this progressive alpine training course we aim to tackle some of Chamonix's classic moderate alpine routes in a style that will offer you high quality mountaineering training along the way. This course is ideally suited to those with some existing rock climbing and winter mountaineering experience and who would like to develop these existing skills and become independent 'Alpinists'.

2015 Dates & Prices

With a maximum ratio of 1 Mountain Guide to 3 students this course aims to deliver high quality practical training whilst also tackling some interesting alpine terrain (up to PD+) and some great venues to practice new skills in a high mountain context.

Course Aims

  • Develop your existing mountaineering & rock climbing skill & experience with a view to progressing as an Alpinist
  • Spend 5 enjoyable days climbing, mountaineering & training around the Mont Blanc Massif
  • Visit a good variety of the classic mountain venues of the Chamonix Valley
  • Meet some other like minded alpine mountaineers
  • Have a fun & sociable week with 1 night spent in a high mountain hut

Below we have outlined both the alpine training elements and suggested alpine routes (up to around alpine grade PD+) for this course which will be led by a fully qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide

There are four cornerstones to Alpine Mountaineering which even good climbers experienced in smaller and non-glaciated hills may not be familiar with. These four themes will drive the content of the training throughout the week. They are:

  • Good 'movement skills' on all terrain from rough walking to steep climbing and from rock to mixed & ice
  • Always roping together members of the team on a snow covered glacier
  • Sticking to guide book time for the route - the need to be efficient and how to achieve this
  • An awareness of objective hazards and how to mitigate against them

Skills Covered During the Course

  • A refresher of crampon and ice axe skills
  • Ice climbing techniques with 1 and 2 tools
  • Secure and efficient movement skills on rock, ice and mixed ground.
  • Being swift yet secure and saving energy on long alpine routes
  • Glacier travel techniques
  • Managing the rope on alpine ridges
  • Multi Pitch Alpine Abseil Descents
  • Crevasse rescue techniques, keeping it simple and effective
  • Selecting appropriate equipment, light and effective
  • Using mountain huts
  • The use of alpine maps and guide books and selecting appropriate routes
  • Alpine navigation including altimeter, GPS and mobile phone applications

Course Programme - Sample Itinerary, (Flexible According to Weather & Conditions)

  • Pre Course - Arrive in Chamonix, arrange any hire equipment. Check in to Hotel / campsite etc. Any previous time spent in the valley warming up / acclimatising / training will be beneficial but is not essential.
  • Day 1 - Easy Multi-pitch rock climbing in the Chamonix Valley. This is an important training day and gives the opportunity to refine your alpine & rock climbing rope work in ascent and descent whilst sampling some of the superb alpine rock in the Aiguilles Rouges / middle mountains.
  • Day 2 - Starting from the village of Argentiere we use the first of the big 3 alpine lifts in the Mont Blanc range Les Grands Montets (3275m). This gives us immediate access to glacial and high alpine mixed terrain where we can start to cover some of the alpine elements of the training themes described above and do some good easy mixed climbing in the process.
  • Day 3 - Ascend Chamonix's famous high mountain lift, the Aiguille du Midi (3842m) to access the remarkable area of rock, ice and mixed climbs around the col du Midi. This day gives us the chance to develop more high mountain alpine techniques with a variety of possible route options including easy multi pitch mixed climbing or a traversing classic alpine PD ridge terrain. Check out some of the options on our 'Midi Variations' gallery below:
  • Days 4 & 5 - Drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel to access the superb Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif via the high Hellbroner lift (3462m). After a glacial journey tackle a superb 'Chamonix Granite' Alpine ridge traverse like the Aiguille Marbrees. The journey back to the high 'Torino' Hut provides an ideal opportunity for some Glacier travel and crevasse rescue training. Dinner and an overnight at the Torino always involves plenty of pasta and classic Italian café.
  • An early start on Day 5 from the Torino Hut (3329m) usually provides the classic pre-dawn experience of an 'alpine start' crunching across the frozen glacier in crampons. Few other huts in the Alps have more route choices than the Torino. Check out our 'Hellbronner Variations' gallery below for some final route options which can be blended with any remaining training issues to be covered at the end of this action & coaching packed week of mountaineering. We finish the week with the final descent to Courmayeur / Chamonix for drinks, a course debrief and some ideas about suitable future climbs on the progression towardsBecoming an Alpinist.

Suggested Fitness and Experience levels

This course is for people who already have some rock climbing experience and have used crampons and an ice axe before. To get the most out of the training and suggested routes you will be able to second up to at least F4b (UK V. Diff) and you will also need to be physically fit and enthusiastic to complete 5 full days (Max 6-8 hours in duration) in the mountains.

Equipment List

Please see out Alpine Mountaineering Equipment List below.

Alpine Mountaineering

Kit list for Alpine Mountaineering

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In addition to all the items mentioned in that list you will also require the following items which can be cheaply hired from us:

  • X 2 Technical Ice Axes
  • Comfortable rock climbing shoes that you can wear all day with a pair of socks underneath

Suggested Course Progression

Our Chamonix Alpine Introduction would be a great start to building your mountaineering experience and a good onward progression would then be to Climb the Gran Paradiso, followed by the Weissmies. These enjoyable and contrasting Italian & Swiss 4000m peaks would set you up very well for Climbing Mont Blanc. Our Becoming an Alpinist course would fit in well after those others and would then logically be followed by Chamonix Alpinist & then Chamonix private guiding for harder / longer routes & north faces as well as our Climb the Eiger & Matterhorn courses. This course progression is often reflected in the dates of our courses so get in touch if you would like to build an excellent longer alpine programme with several different consecutive courses...an alpine 'semester!'

2015 Course Dates & Prices

July 13-17

5 Days, Monday - Friday Inclusive, 0 / 3 Places Available, Course Full - Please enquire about running another summer 2015 course.

(Enquiries: 2)

Night spent in mountain huts on intended itinerary is July 16th

Opportunity to do a 5 day Chamonix Alpine Intro Mountaineering course just before this course.

Opportunity to do a 5 day Chamonix Alpinist course just after this course.

2015 Price

£995

Minimum group size 2, maximum 3. Ratio of 1 Guide to 3 clients.

What’s Included in the Price?

Our courses are priced on a 'guiding only' basis which means you pay the exact cost price for all other expenses like hotels, mountain huts and lift passes.

  • 5 full days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • Transport during the course including travel in the valley and across to the Italian Vallee d'Aosta
  • Discounted equipment hire prices
  • Management of the trip / itinerary and booking of all mountain huts

What’s Not Included?

  • Chamonix accommodation. Prices start from camping at C.10 euros per night, Bunkhouse for C.20 euros per night and hotel accommodation from around 40-50 euros upwards. Please see our Chamonix Accommodation notes below.
  • Mountain huts. Allow about 65 euros per person for your hut night (dinner, bed & breakfast) and share in the Guides hut night also (double this for the Gouter Hut, including several bottles of drinking water).
  • Mountain lift passes. Allow 30 euros for the return trip during the training phase and about the same for the telecabine / tramway during the summit period.
  • The guides expenses are split between the group members and are discounted in huts and on lifts. The best way to deal with these expenses is to make a communal group 'kitty' which you contribute to and all expenses are paid out of.
  • Flights
  • Transfer from the airport to Chamonix, around 30 euros each in way in 2014
  • Lunches, extra drinks, snacks etc during the course
  • Mountaineering equipment. Check the kit list below
  • Insurance, this is your responsibility to arrange and ensure that you are covered for alpine mountaineering in the European Alps
  • Any other expenses
  • Approximate total cost of additional essential expenses (based 6 nights staying in the huts and a 2* Hotel in the valley): 450 Euros

Further Details & Booking

For more details on our terms & conditions, to fill in a booking form and make a payment, please visit our booking page via the link below:

Chamonix Alpine Mountaineering / Climbing Reports

Reports and accounts from Alpine Mountaineering & Rock Climbing around the Chamonix Valley.

Chamonix Mountaineering

An impressive collection of galleries giving an insight in to the quality and huge variety of mountaineering within and around the Chamonix Valley. Routes include classic beginners alpine ridges, 1000m+ classic North Faces, winter style Chamonix Goulottes and many more.

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