High Mountain Guides / What we do / Alpine Mountaineering / Climb The Weissmies

Climb The Weissmies

The Superb Snowy Summit Ridge of the Weissmies (4017m)

Whilst, at 4017m the Weissmies only just makes it into the exclusive club of Alpine 4000m peaks, it has many more attributes to recommend an ascent than just its altitude...

The traverse of the Weissmies is a classic high alpine journey, among some of the Giants of the Swiss Alps, and provides an extremely enjoyable long weekend when combined with its neighboring 4000m peak, the Lagginhorn. This course is suitable for climbers with good fitness and some basic mountaineering experience and is a great progression for higher & more technical alpine ascents.

2015 Dates & Prices

With the Portjengrat on the other side of the col at 3268m

Latest Weissmies Climbing Conditions

Climb the Weissmies, Featuring...

  • Ascents of two fine Swiss alpine 4000m peaks
  • Rocky mountain scramble in ascent, glacial traverse in descent topped by a fine snowy & narrow summit ridge
  • 2 nights spent in lovely Swiss mountain huts. Superb locations, hospitable staff, good Swiss mountain food
  • Quality alpine mountaineering training
  • Great progression (and acclimatisation) towards climbing other 4000m peaks including Mont Blanc & the Matterhorn
  • Meet other like minded climbers for a sociable weekend in the mountains
  • An action packed long alpine weekend easily done from Geneva Airport & transfer to Chamonix
  • The option of returning to Chamonix at the end of the course or catching a train direct to Geneva from Martigny station

Day 1 - Journey Deep Into the Swiss Valais Alps

The 'Swiss Giants' of the Dom (right) & Tasch across the Saastal beyond

  • Our three day Weissmies course begins in Chamonix, easily reached from Geneva airport via a simple one hour transfer. Day 1 begins with introductions, a weather brief and equipment check. We can also hire out any alpine mountaineering equipment out at this stage. Please check our alpine mountaineering equipment list and mountaineering equipment hire pages in advance and let us know what items you will require.
  • Our onward car journey from Chamonix takes us east across the Swiss border and through the Vineyards of the Rhone Valley before we steadily ascend the classic Swiss alpine valley of the Saastal to Saas Grund. Here we leave the car, visit the cafe & climbing shop for any final items required and take the bus up to the village of Saas Almagell where the pleasant 7km, 4 hour hut walk begins.
  • The Almageller Hut is a classic Swiss Mountain Refuge. Attractive & hospitable, with good food, great views and the huts elevation of 2894m is a reasonable sleeping altitude for the first night spent up high. Dinner is served around 6.30pm and involves 4 courses including soup, salad, main course & dessert. Guten Appetit!

Day 2 - Traverse of the Weissmies (4017m)

  • On summit day breakfast is served at around 4am and our intention will be to leave the hut 45 mins after that. A rough & rocky path leads up through stony meadows where the classic alpine sensation of being surrounded by the bobbling head lamps of other teams gives a great pre-dawn atmosphere.
  • The arrival of dawn coincides with reaching the Zwischbergenpass at 3268m. Inspiring & expansive views contrast the first rays of sun from the East over the Italian plains and Lake Maggiore whilst the Swiss Alpine giants remain aloof in shadows to the west. A magnificent spot for a brief pause before ascending the snow slopes leading to the rocky South Ridge.
  • The South Ridge is not technically difficult but

    The Fine Portjengrat (3654m) traverse can be seen on the other side of the Zmischbengenpass

    is sustained & offers fun scrambling. It is a good introduction to this style of mountaineering in preparation for routes on the higher & harder alpine peaks. The delightful summit ridge presents a slightly exposed but enjoyable snow crest leading right to the summit and a breath taking panorama of the Alpine chain.
  • Whilst the ascent of the mountain, spread over two days from Saas Almagell has been long, the descent is relatively short and swift. Some steep snow slopes, crevasses and seracs require careful negotiation on this descent and the aim is to to complete the descent early whilst snow conditions remain good.
  • A relaxing early lunch can then be enjoyed at the 'Hohsaas' ski station & mountain hut with a great view of the North Flank of the mountain. We then make a short further descent of the mountain to reach the Weissmies Hut to spend the afternoon relaxing & preparing for another alpine start & ascent the next morning.

Day 3 - Climb the Lagginhorn (4010m)

  • Another 0400 breakfast is taken to start the ascent of The Lagginhorn. The classic route from the Weissmies Hut presents a climb of around 1000m graded alpine 'PD' and characterised by rough walking, easy scrambling and a few short steep snow or ice mountaineering sections.
  • The descent is relatively short and swift and considerably aided by the presence of the high ski lift which spares the knees for the descent down to the fleshpots of Saas Grund!
  • After lunch in Saas Grund the return drive to Chamonix is made with the option of being dropped off at Martigny train station for the direct train to Geneva Airport. Details of this rail journey can be checked on the Swiss Railway timetable website. We aim to be back in Chamonix by mid-late afternoon on day 3.

With the Swiss / Saas Giants beyond. From L-R, Alphubel, Tasch, Dom, Lenspitze, Nadelhorn

Required Fitness and Experience Levels

Some previous mountaineering experience is required for the traverse of the Weissmies. Those who have never worn crampons before should investigate our 'Chamonix Alpine Introduction' and 'Climb the Gran Paradiso' courses or arrange some private guiding & mountaineering training prior to the course.

Both ascents involve some rocky / mixed scrambling and somewhat narrow and exposed summit ridges so folk should have a head for heights, although the actual difficulty level is quite low. Steep snow must be negotiated efficiently in descent which is why some prior experience with crampons is necessary.

A very good level of fitness & stamina is also required for the long walk to the hut (4 hours) and 1100m climb to above 4000m on the 2 summit days (c. 5-8 hours).

Suggested Course Progression

A good build up to climbing the Weissmies would be completing our Intro Alpine Course and Climbing the Gran Paradiso. This would then set you up well for Climbing Mont Blanc.

After an 0400 breakfast at the Almageller Hut. Heading to the Weissmies hut via a good Swiss mountain lunch at the Hohsaas station

After that our series of Chamonix mountaineering courses forms a logical progression in the following order; 'Becoming an Alpinist' followed by Chamonix Alpinist & then Chamonix private guiding for harder / longer routes & north faces as well as our Climb the Eiger & Matterhorn courses.

When To Climb the Weissmies

Whilst the main season for climbing the Weissmies is high summer (June to September) it is possible to climb the mountain all year round according to weather and conditions. With stable snow conditions In winter and spring, most will make the ascent on skis via the high Hohsaas lift. Those looking for a quieter and tougher climbing experience may choose to climb in the Autumn when the mountain lifts and huts are all closed. Depending on conditions an ascent at this time may still be possible, using the hut's 'winter room' and indeed this can provide a remote feel & magical mountain journey.

Please note the Wiessmies or Climb the Gran Paradiso ascents can often be linked with each other and our Climb Mont Blanc / Climb the Matterhorn courses or would provide a useful springboard for more alpine climbing on a private guiding basis. Please get in touch with your own dates to arrange a private guide for the Wiessmies or an Autumn ascent. We run a range of 3 day courses throughout summer season. See our course dates below.

We can also arrange excellent private guiding itineraries where it is possible to climb some other very good routes from the Almageller Hut (Dry Hornli Ridge & Traverse of the Portjengrat) and the Wiessmies Hut (South Ridge Lagginhorn, North Ridge Weissmies, Fletschorn, Jeggihorn etc) thereby creating a magnificent 3-5 day mountaineering itinerary in the upper Saastaal.

Equipment List

Please refer to our classic alpine mountaineering equipment list for a summer traverse of the Weissmies.

Alpine Mountaineering

Kit list for Alpine Mountaineering

more>

2015 Course Dates & Prices

June 23 - 25

Tuesday - Thursday Inclusive, 3 Days, 3 / 3 Places Still Available. (Enquiries: 1). Opportunity to Climb the Gran Paradiso (3 day course) just before these dates.

July 15 - 17

Wednesday - Friday Inclusive, 3 Days, 3 / 3 Places Still Available. (Enquiries: 3). Opportunity to do our Chamonix Alpine Intro before and / or Climb Mt Blanc after this course.

September 6 - 8

Sunday - Tuesday Inclusive, 3 Days, 3 / 3 Places Still Available. (Enquiries: 0). Opportunity to do our Chamonix Alpine Intro before and / or Climb Mt Blanc after this course.

2015 Price

£695

Maximum guiding ratio of 1 Guide to 3 clients.

What’s included in the Price?

  • 3 days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • Transport during the course from Chamonix to the Swiss Alps & back
  • Discounted equipment hire prices if required
  • Trip management & booking of mountain huts

What’s not included?

  • Dinner, bed and breakfast in the mountain huts, 77 Swiss Francs per person per night. Discounted if you are a member of an alpine club.
  • The guides dinner bed & breakfast at a discounted rate split between group members. E.g with 3 clients this would be c. 20 Swiss Francs each.
  • Valley accommodation. This course is based at the excellent Chalet Tissiers 'Ice & Orange' in Chamonix which offers pleasant half board accomodation from 46 euros per night. If this is full or you would like an alternative style of accommodation please see our Chamonix Accommodation notes. Prices start from camping at C.10 euros per night, Bunkhouse for C.20 euros per night and hotel accommodation from around 40-50 euros upwards.
  • Lunches, drinks and snacks
  • The high mountain lift pass to descend from Hohsaas (C.25 Swiss Francs)
  • Flights and transfers to Chamonix
  • Mountaineering equipment. Check the kit list above
  • Insurance suitable for alpine mountaineering in Europe

Further Details & Booking

For more details on our terms & conditions, to fill in a booking form and make a payment, please visit our booking page via the link below:

Booking

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Climb The Weissmies, Current Conditions

If you have climbed on the Weissmies recently please add any relevant comments on climbing conditions via the 'New comment' button at the base of the page:

Comments

21st June 2013, Decent conditions on the South Ridge & North Flank of the Wiessmies

Staff at the Almageller Hut reporting reasonable conditions and several teams climbing the mountain from this side over the last few days. The Hohsaas Hut reporting lots of snow on the Northern Flank of the mountain providing generally good conditions when the glacier is frozen. Several teams climbed the mountain today from Hohsaas and there is a good track in place.

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