High Mountain Guides / What we do / Alpine Mountaineering / Chamonix / Zermatt Alpinist / Zermatt Based Alpinist

Zermatt Based Alpinist

High on the Arbengrat (WSW Ridge) of the Obergabelhorn, Swiss Valais Alps

Zermatt is one of the iconic places of the Alps. A place where climbers and tourists share the bustle of the high street and the whole show is overlooked by the looming and spectacular presence of the Matterhorn. Zermatt is not accessible by car which is not a problem considering the several seasons worth of high class alpinsim which can be accessed from the town itself. This course aims to make the most of the great alpine climbing surrounding Zermatt.

Possible climbs for the week: (All dependent on weather, conditions and client fitness / ability)

N.B. a number of interesting hut to hut traverses are possible around Zermatt enabling a number of classic routes and peaks to be climbed with out descending down to the valley

  • Traverse of the Breithorn (AD) an excellent high level snow and rock ridge which is possible to complete in a day trip from Zermatt via the Kleinne Matterhorn lift.
  • Point de Zinal traverse from the Zinal Hut, it is possible to link this with the:
  • Obergabelhorn (AD) via the Arbengrat. By descending to the Rothorn Hut it is possible to link this with the:
  • Zinalrothorn (AD), 3 different classic ridges to choose from on this peak.
  • Trifthorn traverse (AD)
  • Weisshorn (AD) The big one. Even the easiest route up the 4th biggest peak in the Alps is a major undertaking.
  • Alphubel (AD) climbed from the lovely Tasch Hut the Rotgrat present a varied and demanding mixed ridge to this major summit. The descent is fairly easy.
  • Tasch (AD / AD+) Offering two contrasting routes the Tasch can be climbed from Zermatt via the huge snowy 'Kin Face' or the high altitude rock scramble via the Mischabel Bivouac Hut.
  • Rimpfischorn (PD+/AD) A long, tough days mountaineering from the Tasch Hut.

Suggested fitness and experience levels: The peaks around Zermatt offer tough physical and technical challenges. Folk preparing for climbing these peaks should be happy to make solid 5 hour hut walks and up to 12 hour days of sustained mountaineering the next day. If traverses are made folk should have a good recovery rate and ability to climb multiple tough days in a row. To complete the long AD ridges on the Zermatt 4000m peaks a variety of practiced mountaineering skills are required from deft scrambling and sound easy rock climbing with a pack to accurate and reliable cramponing skills. These are not beginner’s peaks.