Specialist winter protection II

Ice Hooks - Whilst placing these on ice is likely to be for psychological value only, occasionally, on mixed routes, they do seem to provide a runner when nothing else will do. A friend new routing in Torridon last season got committed on steep, serious ground and a hook was the only piece of gear he could find. After an agonising lower off he coolly flicked the ropes and the hook popped right out. Gulp!

Warthogs - The only route where I have used more than the incidental warthog is the 1959 Face route at Creag Meagaidh. They were seriously handy on that and if you do frequent really turfy venues where the rock is either compact or dubious it is certainly worth taking a few along, otherwise, don’t bother.

Dead Men –I generally reckon for snow belays I can construct something adequate with my axes and a bucket seat. So, like a nut key, I don’t bother taking an extra bit of kit to do a job I can already do with my tools.

Screamers & Belay Plate - All the above wintery protection may be assisted by using a shock absorbing quick draw or ‘Screamer!’ These are too beefy to carry lots of. I usually use 2, one on the first runner and the other on the next bit of gear that seems remotely ‘dodgy!’

Finally, all this well chosen, well placed gear won’t count for much if your mate drops you because of cold, gloved hands and the slippery combination of traditional belay plate with modern skinny ropes. Make sure you have a belay plate suitable for the diameter of the ropes you’re using.