Specialist winter protection I

Ice Screws & Abalokovs – For pure ice routes you’ll want at least 2 screws per belay and if pitches are long and sustained another 6-8 for runners. Don’t economise on ice screws. Yes, it’s going to be expensive, but otherwise you’ll regret being on the sharp end with a blunt screw. Get some rackers for your harness and place them in the optimum spot where they don’t trash your guchi new pants but you can still reach them.

Match the length of the screw with the depth of the ice. So use stubby screws in thin ice rather than tying off longer ones and have a variety of lengths. I take two long (22cm) screws for belays and making threads. Don’t forget your Abalokov threader and some spare tat.

Pegs - Most popular mixed routes are well endowed with ‘clean’ runner placements and generally do not need pegs to protect them. However on the days when everything is liberally plastered in verglas they may save the day. For folk heading off to more obscure routes or venues they become an invaluable asset and I know of several active new routers who carry large racks of pegs from knife blades right through to fat bongs. Ice or mixed, I will generally have 3-4 pegs on my harness but that is usually where they stay.