Adapting your rock climbing rack

Quickdraws – We are always getting told ‘light is right’ and of course there is a lot in this. In winter however beware of going a compromise too far. Karabiners need to be big enough so they are easy to clip with a cold, gloved hand and large wire gates are my favourite. Quickdraws that extend into 4ft slings are more flexible than sport style clips as the sling can be used for tying off ice-screws, icicles or pegs and extending runners more effectively. Using a bandolier to carry your shorter quickdraws is not a bad idea as the back of your harness is a lot harder to get to with a rucksack and various extra layers on.

Nuts – ‘Beware your nuts getting winterised!’...when you gently tap (or, more likely, desperately pound them) into icy cracks with your sharp picks. Nuts with split wire cables not only rip your clothes and tongue but might break so bin them and be more careful how you ‘encourage’ them in with your pick next time!

Hexes – Modern ‘Rockcentric’ style hexes are ‘the business’ in winter offering large but light protection options. They can be strongly encouraged into cracks, ideally with your hammer, and are far less vulnerable than cams to the ‘slippery crack’ phenomenon mentioned below. So if you’re of the summer rock cat variety that wouldn’t be seen dead with a harness full of swinging hexes….think again. The only question you need to ask is….wire or tape? Try, or even take, both as the pros and cons seem about equal to me.

Friends – Cams and ice are a seriously bad mix and all winter climbers should be aware of the severe limitations of friends in verglassed cracks. However, when the rock is dry or just frosted they can be a great asset to protecting the pitch. If you’re buying new cams try operating them with gloved hands in the shop. Some are more ‘winter friendly’ than others. Black Diamond Camelots are my favourites.