Rock Boot 'Management'
How would your feet feel doing this! It's hard to concentrate on the climbing if your boots are making you wince!
Sophie squeezing tight rock boots into the fine deep crack of The Strand (E2), Gogarth, North Wales
If you’re getting serious about your climbing and do a variety of different styles 1 pair of rock boots will rarely be enough. That radical, bendy pair of slippers so good for precarious smearing at Stanage Plantation will have you in tears on the 1200m, 55 pitch South Ridge of the Noire. This seems remarkably obvious but every year in the Alps I see handy rock climbers wincing with swollen feet in tight boots halfway up a long, hot rock ridge – a lot of climbing still to do…with sore feet!
You should aim to have 2 or more pairs with specific roles in mind for each pair. For example I use 5.10 T-Rocks for most of my single pitch climbing, trad or sport (their profile suits my fairly narrow feet slightly better than the more obvious 5.10 Anasazis). For longer UK type multi-pitch, usually with a rough or scrambling descent I use the classic 5.10 Ascents and for super long alpine rock (with big socks!) I use a comfortably baggy old pair of Scarpa Marathons.
Whatever you buy – do your research first by checking the manufacturers own website to get an idea of the models that are designed for your needs. If you know what model you want and exactly what size then have a look on ebay. There are bargains to be had but unless you are sure it’s better to go to a good climbing shop, in the afternoon, chat about what you want your boots for, try lots of pairs on, have a boulder….and don’t buy them too tight!!
Good climbing and good luck because a well fitting, well broken in pair of sticky boots will be a pleasure to climb in.
