High Mountain Guides / Useful Information / Advice Articles / Buying Rock Boots

Buying Rock Boots

Bernard 'feeling the pinch' with overtight rock shoes, for the Grit

Pain is Insane! - Do Not Fit your shoes too tight! Some Simple Advice on selecting a well fitting pair of rock climbing shoes....

Article index

  1. Buying Rock Boots
  2. Rock Boot 'Management'

These extremely wise words are provided by 5.10 – perhaps the best manufacturer of rock boots around, certainly the stickiest rubber:

  • Street Shoe Size is only a starting point.
  • Rock shoes are unique, no two desgins fit alike. Generally, softer shoes perform best with a snug fit. Stiffer shoes can be worn looser.
  • Eliminate dead space but don't fit so tight to create hot spots.
  • Climbing shoes should not be uncomfortably tight, otherwise tears might keep you from seeing ( smearing - ed.) micro edges.
  • Feet swell during the day, from 1/2 to a full size. Try on shoes in the afternoon if possible.
  • Synthetic uppers won't stretch - you will have the same fit in six months.
  • You should have no hot spots when you are up on your toes.
  • Lined leather shoes stretch up to about 1/3 size after a break-in period of about 10 pitches.
  • Unlined leather shoes will stretch up to 1 full size.