High Mountain Guides / News / Pellisier Gully, Mt. Blanc du Tacul Ice & Vallee Blanche conditions

Pellisier Gully, Mt. Blanc du Tacul Ice & Vallee Blanche conditions

Pellisier Gully, Pointe Lachenal, Chamonix

Owain Jones and myself enjoyed some fun & fine icy mixed climbing on Pointe Lachenal's central 'Pellisier Gully' today, see photos below. A very quick ski across the Col du Midi and upper reaches of the Vallee Blanche accesses the base of this short but entertaining route. After crossing the bergschrund and climbing 100m of easy snow we climbed 4 good icy mixed pitches (up to Scottish 5 but mainly around III) and rapped back down. The 5th and last pitch is pure rock and we scuttled off back to Montenvers as, in the absence of snow on the track to Chamonix, you really don't want to miss the last train down!

There were many teams climbing on the Gabarou Albinoni, Modica Noury, Pinocchio area, see latest alpine conditions photos . Teams were also climbing on the Tour Ronde North Face and on the North Face of the Col du Plan including 'Fil a Plomb'.

Climbers on the classic Chamonix Ice Goulottes, Gabarrou Albinoni (upper left) & Modica Noury (upper centre), Feb 9th 2011. A team also on Pinocchio, East Face Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix

The descent of the Vallee Blanche, whilst still a great journey which we had almost entirely to ourselves, is getting a little rocky in places. The descent of the Midi arete now has the fully equipped zig zag path in place but this is quite icy and wearing crampons would still be a good idea.

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