Hogmenay on Ice, Nevis, Glencoe, Cairngorms
Highly enjoyable icy mixed climbing on Fluted Buttress Direct (IV), Northern Cairngorms
The lead in to Hogmenay has been chraracterised by thawing conditions across the Scottish Highlands. The impressive early season snow cover was softened to an unpleasant slush and the widespread low level ice receeded up the hill. Climbing conditions however remained good with well frozen turf and fat icefalls remaining up high.
Andy, Chris and I enjoyed some soft plastic cascade ice climbing on the Ben Nevis CIC Hut Crag; turfy mixed climbing on Stob Coire Nan Lochain's 'Ordinary Route' (III/IV) in Glen Coe and spent Hogmenay enjoying the superbly ice granite mixed climbing on 'Fluted Buttress Direct' (IV) in the Northern Cairngorms. Andy and Chris had not winter climbed before but their background of winter walking, scrambling and easy mountain rock climbing meant they had many of the required skills in place already and could, and did, progress rapidly. Good effort!
Hard freezing conditions starting tomorrow and continuing into next week will re-kick-start the ice manufacturing machines across the main winter climbing venues of the Highlands and will most likely provide some more superb conditions.
Good Climbing & a Very Happy New Year!



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