10th February Cascade Saint-Marie, Les Houches

Climbing in Les Houches saves a lot of travel time, energy and cost over the journey to Cogne and with local ice this good there is no need to head to Italy. We climbed the slightly less steep right hand line at about 4 whereas another team enjoyed steeper and more sustained ice over on the left of the cascade which looked around 4+/5. The pleasant walk off up and right along the forest paths back to the Les Houches station must be preferred to rappelling back down the route with various teams still climbing and very icy ropes!

7th February, Lillaz Gully & Cogne Update

It was a shock to leave the heated car this morning at the Lillaz car park and spill out in to the -20C dawn temperatures. However we were rewarded with superb views down the valley to the Italian side of Mont Blanc which would be a constant companion during our Arctic like ascent of Lillaz Gully. Ice conditions were good and, despite many recent ascents, the first pitch felt pristine again due to constant spring fed drainage and constant hard freezing temperatures. Further up the Valleys we also heard reports of good cllimbing on the following routes:

Tuborg, Stella, and X Files...

22nd January, Cogne Ice

A mild day in the Valle d'Aoste but with blue skies and lots of ice there were still plenty of people enjoying quality cascade climbing. Most of them were with us enjoying a 'sociable' ascent of Cascade Lillaz (II 3, 250m). Great fun climbing with lots of options to creat steeper variations or even top rope some short harder pitches. We finished via the Right hand ice stream.

The routes book in Cogne's excellent cafe 'Bar Licone' was reporting that the following routes had all been climbed in the last few days:

Plus many others!

Cascade Lillaz, II 3, 250m

Enjoyable Ice & Mixed Top Roping

The Easier Left Hand Start to Cascade Lillaz,

The Steeper Right Hand Start to Cascade Lillaz

18th January Argentiere Basin

Team seen climbing Frendo Ravanel.

12th January, Beau Temps and Category 1/5 Avalanche Risk in Chamonix

A great combination for alpine winter climbing! The perfect cool and clear weather looks set to continue untill thursday. Teams have been out climbing on Fil a Plomb on the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi and the Swiss Route on Les Courtes.

11th January, Good Italian Ice in Cogne

Thanks to John Carney for this 'hot off the press' report of Ice Climbing conditions in the Cogne Valleys above the Italian Valle d'Aoste:

"Patri is in great nick and is getting done a lot as are Cascade de Lillaz and Cold Couloir. The higher falls like Repentance, Monday Money and Flash Estivo are also in good shape, and with the approaches easing after the recent snowfalls (we ploughed up there in deep snow and I think a mate or two are still there) all should be seeing a bit of traffic. And there is an excellent free standing awaiting the bold just opposite this cluster of gems on Di Fronte al Tradimento (VI)."

Ice Climbing in Cogne

John Carney on Cascade Lillaz

Ice Climbing in Cogne

Ice Climbing in Cogne, January 2012