High Mountain Guides / News / Chamonix & Alpine Climbing Reports Spring 2016

Chamonix & Alpine Climbing Reports Spring 2016

Pinocchio, Great icy mixed climb on the Impressive East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix

March 25th 2016 - Improving Alpine Climbing Conditions & Lots Activity Across Mont Blanc Range

The excellent late winter / early spring weather, after much snowfall in Feb & March, has considerably improved Chamonix alpine climbing conditions and many teams have been out climbing goullottes, high mountain routes & North Faces.

Starting with the easier and more accessible routes around the Col du Midi area, the Chere Couloir has been popular albeit fairly thin. The Cosmiques Arete is well tracked as is a route up the Pointe Lachenal. Numerous teams have been abseiling from the bridge at the Midi station climbing Vent du Dragon & others.

Further South along the East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul the Goulotte Pellisier has been climbed as has the mighty Supercouloir, with good conditions on the lower mixed pitches and quite thin ice higher up. Between the two, 'Pinocchio' was climbed yesterday as well as other teams on Modica Noury.

Further East in the Argentiere Basin the Legarde Couloir on the Droites was climbed recently by Gareth, with the ski descent all the way to Chamonix along the James Bond track (with some walking at the end). Ben & Gavin climbed the Frendo Ravanel in the Argentire Basin with fairly thin ice and some dry tooling along the way! Petit Viking has been popular and some teams have made the traverse of Mont Dolent via climbing it's steep & shady French side and skiing down the sunny Italian / Swiss side!

On the North Face front - The Mallory Porter on the Midi was climbed a few days ago as was the North Face of the Eiger. Mixed showery & windy weather over the Easter weekend and in to next week will not be helpful for high mountain climbing but will help build mountain ice & mixed conditions further for better conditions later in the spring. Good climbing & let us know how the conditions were if you get some good routes done...

17 November 2015, Dome de Miage North Face & Aiguille de Bionnassay Traverse

The Indian summer continues across the Northern Alps with dry, sunny & relatively mild weather giving stable conditions for many teams to enjoy high alpine autumn mountaineering. Our 3 day expedition took advantage of these conditions to enjoy an aes... more>

Winter / Spring / Autumn Mountaineering in Chamonix

There are some alpinists who consider summer to be the only 'off-season' period for alpine mountaineering. It is in winter, spring and autumn that the combination of snow, ice, low temperatures and quiet mount... more>

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