Gareth, Sue and I enjoyed the rare treat of topping out and using the highest belay in the UK, the summit trig point on Ben Nevis. This provided a fine climax to the sustained grade V ice of 'Indicator Wall Right Hand'. We were just in time to snatch a fleeting summit view before the rapid westward march of the predicted deteriorating weather engulfed the summit plateau. Sub-zero temperatur... more>
Sue, Gareth and I set off from the Ben Nevis North Face car park in the rain this morning but the promising forecast kept a spring in the weary end of season legs. The weather predictions were spot on and after enjoying 5 fine pitches of sustained grade III ice we topped out to a sun bathed Nevis plateau offering views north to the brown and snowless far west Highlands.
The Red burn ga... more>
Despite the pleasant sunny springlike start to the day on Ben Nevis there was a chilly wind blowing over the plateau and a feeling of winter trying to hang on in there. Forecasts of sub zero temperatures over the weekend and into next week look set to preserve the considerable amount of ice remaining high on the Ben for a while yet.
Michael continued his Mount Vinson (highest peak in A... more>
A sharp overnight frost following a series of cool snowy days saw ice re-building down to 700m or so on Ben Nevis. Even the CIC Hut Crag Cascade had reformed, albeit at a rather more serious proposition than before.
Teams traversing the Carn Mor Dearg Arete today were treated to constant views across to the North Face of Ben Nevis looking pristine. Those on the North Face of Ben Nevis... more>
The East Ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach has to be good otherwise no one would bother with the rather long and scrappy approach. Even via the Nevis Range Gondola the lower section of the ridge rather 'drags on', especially on a driech West Coaster like today.
However the upper alpine PD style section of the ridge provides some high quality and sustained Scottish mountaineering at grade... more>
It always feels good to be back on the North Face of Ben Nevis, even if it is only a week since last being up there.
Michael and I ignored the drizzle as we chatted our way up the Allt a' Mhuillin and looked forward to picking our way up through the steep snow, ice bulges and clean wet rock of Ledge Route.
There was a very mild thaw across most of the mountain and the temperatu... more>
A pattern of mild thaw below about 1000m continues across the West & Southern Highlands. Snow falls yesterday and last night have not been very significant and where deposits of fresh windslab exist they appear to be reasonably shallow and moderately well bonded to the older, moist and generally stable snow pack underneath.
Micheal and I have been getting into some fine parts of t... more>
Very strong wind and rain deterred all but the most 'keen' teams getting out on the hills of the West Highlands yesterday.
Working with a large group of doctors completing the diploma in Mountian Medicine we thought laterally to come up with a venue less exposed to the wild weather. Damien, leader of the more>
Despite the persistent thawing conditions, with freezing levels above the summits, ice climbing conditions remain reasonable on Ben Nevis. The soft 'hero' ice was a real pleasure to climb today and the easier CIC hut crag cascades are hanging on well.
The main more>
After an extremely wet and warm start to the day in the West Highlands the afternoon became bright with a stiff North Westerly breeze. The freezing level was above the summits and I joined a group of 4 doctors undertaking the diploma in mountain medicine for a day of mountain training and a superb traverse of the na... more>



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