A clear and stary but moonless night greeted our 01:50 departure from the Refuge Tette Rousse.
It felt mild on the rocky scrambling approach to the Gouter Hut yet, as usual, a breeze accompanied the magnificent pre-dawn view across the Chamonix Aiguilles and the snow was perfectly crisp.
Our 13 hour summit day felt like a long one but the weather was perfect and we beat the impen... more>
In what the Chamonix Meteo reports described as 'scorching' hot weather Tom, Gaz, Noel and I enjoyed 2 solid days of Alpine training based in the Chamonix Valley.
A day based from the top station on the Grandes Montets lift allowed us to practice the different rope techniques used for glacier travel, moving together on steep snow, ice and rock as well as pitched climbing and abseiling... more>
After some cold and snowy conditions the Chamonix Valley has enjoyed a fine week of summer alpine weather. Temperatures have been mild overnight and hot in the day giving afternoon thunderstorms and soft snow on the Glaciers and snowy faces.
Mat, Gregor and I started our Alpine Guides Technical Alpinism course with some multi-... more>
The impressive brooding landscapes of Glen Nevis & Glencoe have been popular locations for some major films over the years. Harry Potter, William Wallace (in 'Braveheart') and the Monty Python crew (in the Holy Grail) have all visited the deep Glens of the West Highlands.
The latest film promises to have some spectacular rock climbing footage as an opening sequence and has made go... more>
After the long and cold (but excellent) winter of 2010 it is a pleasure not a chore to put the ice axes away and dust off the rock boots. Late spring in to early summer in the Highlands is often the best window for good weather, dry rock and midge free climbing.
From Fort William we have had some good recent forays both on the local crags of more>
Glencoe gave it's usual fine display of a variety of brooding light shows today. In a cool but classic West Coast spring day we experienced everything from snow, sleet and hail to a sun tan!
The narrow and airy rhyolite ridge feels like a more meticulous proposition when it's a wet slither rather than a dry romp but the rock is well worn and thus as clean as the way to go is clear.
... more>Tom Longstaff was a tough and adventurous British explorer and mountaineer (and Doctor) very active in the early 20th century. In 1907 he famously made the first ever ascent of a 7000m peak by climbing Trisul in the Indian Himalaya. Prior to that in 1905 he had explored a possible route in to the Nanda Devi Sancturay and made a bold foray up onto the col, that would later bear his name, to e... more>
Mention the Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arete to the dedicated Scottish hill goer and they will conjure up an image of the aesthetic curving ridge encircling the Allt a' Mhuillin and offering constantly stupendous views of the North Face of Ben Nevis, a real British Mountain classic. But there is another classic arete on Carn Mor Dearg and one that sees far less traffic.
Michael and I felt li... more>
Spring is the best time of year to be in the Scottish Highlands. You can do it all....before the Midges arrive:
Whilst fat blue ice still clings to the steep flanks on the North Face of Ben Nevis and snow hangs on in the deep gullies, on the lower cliffs and scrambles warm dry rock can often be enjoyed (but not always!). It is a great time of year for preparing for alpine trips for th... more>
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