Having done a good deal of winter climbing in Scotland and rock climbing and mountaineering in Turkey John decided it was time to try a big route in the Western Alps. His choice of line was a good one, the famous classic of the Frendo Spur on the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi, highly visible from the Chamonix high street.

John's choice of dates was even better with the valley qui... more>

Temperatures have plummeted and the hills, crags and streets of the Chamonix are emptying of the crowds of August. This is the favourite time of most Guides in the Chamonix Valley.

Cooler air but sun warmed south facing rock, good friction but no queues. Autumn has arrived in the Chamonix Valley....

We have been out making the most of the current spell of fine weather with ascent... more>

It has been one of the snowiest Augusts here in the Western Alps for decades. Whilst this hampered (but didn't deter) our keen 'Mission' team on Mont Blanc last week it provided us with a late summer treat for our ascent of the highest mountain in Switzerland, The Dom.

British Mountain Guide Paul Wright joined Rob, James, Louis, Gareth and I for the not insubstantial walk up to the Dom... more>

The large amounts of fresh snow at the start of the week here in the Chamonix valley gave some difficult mountain conditions with only those willing to break trail and navigate getting anywhere.

James, Gareth, Louis, Rob and I had an unusually tough Mont Blanc training period over on the Tour and Trient Glaciers. This prepared us well for an unusually tough Mont Blanc ascent which too... more>

Mike, Pete and I had intentions of climbing the Matterhorn last week but selected other Valais objectives as the rain poured and the snow settled quite thickly down to hut level at around 2800m

Click links below for route photos...

We packed in the quality Swiss Mountain Gneiss though starting with the superb little AD traverse of the more>

When the overnight clouds parted on the Chamonix Valley this morning they revealed 30cms of fresh snow and mountains plastered down to 2500m. A pristine feel returned to the faces and glaciers around the valley as fresh tracks were put in and ridges cleared of snow.

Gavin and I enjoyed some fine snowed up granite mixed climbing on the short Chamonix classic, the 'Cosmiques Arete'. Whi... more>

Many teams turned back on the route to Mont Blanc from the Aiguille du Midi today. Those getting an early start from the Cosmiques Hut enjoyed a full moon bathed night, but the wind and cloud started early and provided a cold buffeting. Most teams starting from the first Midi lift were fighting a losing battle and like many other teams we returned from the Col de la Brenva with no summit in... more>

An 0400 start and 1100 finish today on the Grand Paradiso (from the Vittorio Emanuelle Hut) ensured fine crisp snow conditions throughout the ascent of the normal west flank route.

It was a busy day on the mountain as numerous teams headed over from Chamonix as an alternative to the Gouter Route on Mont Blanc.

The Ciarforn normal route had tracks on and looked a much more attrac... more>

Consistently hot temperatures have led to a rapid deterioration in conditions for the crossing of the 'Grand Couloir' on Mont Blanc's 'Gouter Route'.

Little snow now remains in the Couloir and there have been multiple accidents due to both stonefall and slips on loose rock. Most of the observed rockfall yesterday seemed to be initiated by the small meltwater streams generated by the... more>

Along with fellow British Guides, Dave Hollinger and Stuart Macdonald I have just had the pleasure of training some of the students of the U.K.'s Ministry of Defence technical college, 'Welbeck'.

Based on the dedication, fitness and sharpness of the students I think the future of the British forces is in good hands, not to mention the potential recruitment for the British Mountain Guid... more>