A pattern of mild thaw below about 1000m continues across the West & Southern Highlands. Snow falls yesterday and last night have not been very significant and where deposits of fresh windslab exist they appear to be reasonably shallow and moderately well bonded to the older, moist and generally stable snow pack underneath.
Micheal and I have been getting into some fine parts of t... more>
Very strong wind and rain deterred all but the most 'keen' teams getting out on the hills of the West Highlands yesterday.
Working with a large group of doctors completing the diploma in Mountian Medicine we thought laterally to come up with a venue less exposed to the wild weather. Damien, leader of the more>
Despite the persistent thawing conditions, with freezing levels above the summits, ice climbing conditions remain reasonable on Ben Nevis. The soft 'hero' ice was a real pleasure to climb today and the easier CIC hut crag cascades are hanging on well.
The main more>
After an extremely wet and warm start to the day in the West Highlands the afternoon became bright with a stiff North Westerly breeze. The freezing level was above the summits and I joined a group of 4 doctors undertaking the diploma in mountain medicine for a day of mountain training and a superb traverse of the na... more>
The inclement forecast made for a quiet day on the Ben. There was a shallow layer of fresh snow at the base of the Minus and Orion Faces and a lot of thumping wet rime falling off the crags. One brave team were setting off in to the Maelstrom high on the Orion Face. Rosy cheeks guaranteed!
Neil and I had a good adventure and tough days mountaineering on the Nevis classic, Minus Two Gul... more>
It was a rather damp day on Ben Nevis and driving dreichness at the CIC Hut deterred Neil and I from an attempt on Observatory Ridge.
The prospect of a more sheltered route with cosy cave belays and a low top out on North East Buttress proved a more attractive option and Minus 3 lived up to it's reputation as one of the best Gully climbs on the Mountain. Four sustained pitches followin... more>
After a week of sustained grade V ice climbing John and I fancied a big alpine style route.
We met and passed the freezing level about half way up the long journey to the summit of Stob Coire Nam Beith via 'Deep Cut Chimney' (IV). This meant some soft and wet, but pleasant, ice low down and a few moves of entertaining wet tooling to get around the routes massive chockstone.
The... more>
There was a perverse jubilation and appreciation of the more 'West Coast' weather on Aonach Mor today.
The pouring spindrift, hot aches and icy eyebrows that can all feel a bit wearing after a long winter on the West felt comical and almost welcome today. The freezing level went up but it still felt truly like winter (icicles on the rime!). Stiff westerlies deposited some fresh snow... more>
Vanishing Gully gives one of the steeper grade V pitches on the Ben and it had a certain Chamonixesque feel today as the superb solid ice snaked it's way up through narrow bounding walls. It is a route with a real atmosphere and gives sustained grade IV climbing with one short sharp grade 5 pitch. As the arms are tiring on this pitch have a think about the first ascent by Marshall and Tiso i... more>
Climbed the Organ Pipe Wall & Junior's Jaunt at Beinn Udlaidh. Three superb pitches of chewy Scottish water ice 5.
The daily thaw has not yet been severe on the ice, just made it a real pleasure to climb. The snow has consolidated well with the recent freeze-thaw cycles and we descended Central Gully in good snow conditions.
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