High Mountain Guides / News

24 October 2013, Chamonix / Midi Climbing Conditions Summary

A perfect day for autumn alpine climbing high above the Chamonix Valley today. Mild, calm & sunny, although there was plenty of deep fresh snow on the easier ground from the recent storm. One team crossed the Col du Midi en route to the Chere Couloir but most other part... more>

2-3rd August 2013, Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif - Conditions Round-Up.

Despite 'scorching heat' being forecast, snow conditions remained surprisingly good on the high glaciers & routes accessed from Punta Hellbronner above Courmayuer. As part of our Mt Blanc training programme we climbed the Aiguiile d'Entreves &, W.... more>

13th March 2013 - A Return to Winter Powder Skiing High in the Chamonix Valley

Great skiing over the last couple of days thanks to around 40cms of fresh snow up high, cool temperatures and light winds. A return to the theme of this winter - cruising light powder. We skied variations on both the Argentiere Glacier runs from the Grands... more>

January 13th 2013 - Argentiere 'Rive Gauche' Icefalls & Carrington Rouse

The popularity of the Argentiere Rive Droite icefalls has diminished in proportion to the increasing objective danger on the approach. They currently look superb but there is no one climbing there which is not surprising considering the toppling seracs of th... more>

Consistent cool showery weather has been laying a promising base of snow on the glaciers and faces of the Mont Blanc massif . The 0 degreee isotherm has hovered between around 3300m and 2000m with significant amounts of fresh snow up high and a bit of melt freeze to help settle things down. Folk looking for some classic icy autumn mixed climbing will be aware of the potential for this weathe... more>

Warm high summer weather has brought the high alpine rock ridges in to great condition and the Matterhorn is getting a number of ascents each day at the moment via the Hornli and Italian ridge. We climbed the mountain yesterday in an 8 hour round trip from the Hornlihutte and enjoyed pleasant warm dry rock to the shoulder with some mixed rock and ice work through the fixed rope section and d... more>

Numerous recent reports have come in of significant rock falls in Mont Blanc's Gouter couloir including a large one this morning which produced enough rock debris to spill out of the Couloir and down on to the Tete Rousse Glacier. The Tete Rousse camp / bivvi site has been closed and climbers are recommended to avoid this route for now as the very warm weather continues. Reasonable condition... more>

Near perfect conditions were experienced on the traverse of the Eiger yesterday with dry rock and stiff frozen snow higher on the summit crest and the short snowfield sections. The Guardian at the Hornli Hut on the Matterhorn also reported good conditions with numerous teams making the ascent of the Hornli Ridge plus several teams climbing the Matterhorn North Face. Not bad for the first of... more>

High summer has arrived in the high mountains of the Mont Blanc massif. Stay in touch with the latest conditions reports and add your own via our dedicated Chamonix Mountaineering Conditions page below.

Reports include recent ascents of the Aiguille Verte, Les Droites as well as many more accessible classic Chamonix Alpine routes.

Here is the latest report:


We have two places remaining on our inspiring 'Climb Gran Paradiso' course on the 14th & 15th July 2012. The course fee is only £385 for the weekend which includes guiding, travel to the mountain and a night in an Italian mountain hut (pasta and fine coffee guaranteed!)

Gran Paradiso Weekend

  • Our two day Gran Par... more>