Tom Longstaff was a tough and adventurous British explorer and mountaineer (and Doctor) very active in the early 20th century. In 1907 he famously made the first ever ascent of a 7000m peak by climbing Trisul in the Indian Himalaya. Prior to that in 1905 he had explored a possible route in to the Nanda Devi Sancturay and made a bold foray up onto the col, that would later bear his name, to e... more>
Mention the Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arete to the dedicated Scottish hill goer and they will conjure up an image of the aesthetic curving ridge encircling the Allt a' Mhuillin and offering constantly stupendous views of the North Face of Ben Nevis, a real British Mountain classic. But there is another classic arete on Carn Mor Dearg and one that sees far less traffic.
Michael and I felt li... more>
Spring is the best time of year to be in the Scottish Highlands. You can do it all....before the Midges arrive:
Whilst fat blue ice still clings to the steep flanks on the North Face of Ben Nevis and snow hangs on in the deep gullies, on the lower cliffs and scrambles warm dry rock can often be enjoyed (but not always!). It is a great time of year for preparing for alpine trips for th... more>
Gareth, Sue and I enjoyed the rare treat of topping out and using the highest belay in the UK, the summit trig point on Ben Nevis. This provided a fine climax to the sustained grade V ice of 'Indicator Wall Right Hand'. We were just in time to snatch a fleeting summit view before the rapid westward march of the predicted deteriorating weather engulfed the summit plateau. Sub-zero temperatur... more>
Sue, Gareth and I set off from the Ben Nevis North Face car park in the rain this morning but the promising forecast kept a spring in the weary end of season legs. The weather predictions were spot on and after enjoying 5 fine pitches of sustained grade III ice we topped out to a sun bathed Nevis plateau offering views north to the brown and snowless far west Highlands.
The Red burn ga... more>
Despite the pleasant sunny springlike start to the day on Ben Nevis there was a chilly wind blowing over the plateau and a feeling of winter trying to hang on in there. Forecasts of sub zero temperatures over the weekend and into next week look set to preserve the considerable amount of ice remaining high on the Ben for a while yet.
Michael continued his Mount Vinson (highest peak in A... more>
A sharp overnight frost following a series of cool snowy days saw ice re-building down to 700m or so on Ben Nevis. Even the CIC Hut Crag Cascade had reformed, albeit at a rather more serious proposition than before.
Teams traversing the Carn Mor Dearg Arete today were treated to constant views across to the North Face of Ben Nevis looking pristine. Those on the North Face of Ben Nevis... more>
The East Ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach has to be good otherwise no one would bother with the rather long and scrappy approach. Even via the Nevis Range Gondola the lower section of the ridge rather 'drags on', especially on a driech West Coaster like today.
However the upper alpine PD style section of the ridge provides some high quality and sustained Scottish mountaineering at grade... more>
It always feels good to be back on the North Face of Ben Nevis, even if it is only a week since last being up there.
Michael and I ignored the drizzle as we chatted our way up the Allt a' Mhuillin and looked forward to picking our way up through the steep snow, ice bulges and clean wet rock of Ledge Route.
There was a very mild thaw across most of the mountain and the temperatu... more>
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