Many teams turned back on the route to Mont Blanc from the Aiguille du Midi today. Those getting an early start from the Cosmiques Hut enjoyed a full moon bathed night, but the wind and cloud started early and provided a cold buffeting. Most teams starting from the first Midi lift were fighting a losing battle and like many other teams we returned from the Col de la Brenva with no summit in... more>
An 0400 start and 1100 finish today on the Grand Paradiso (from the Vittorio Emanuelle Hut) ensured fine crisp snow conditions throughout the ascent of the normal west flank route.
It was a busy day on the mountain as numerous teams headed over from Chamonix as an alternative to the Gouter Route on Mont Blanc.
The Ciarforn normal route had tracks on and looked a much more attrac... more>
Consistently hot temperatures have led to a rapid deterioration in conditions for the crossing of the 'Grand Couloir' on Mont Blanc's 'Gouter Route'.
Little snow now remains in the Couloir and there have been multiple accidents due to both stonefall and slips on loose rock. Most of the observed rockfall yesterday seemed to be initiated by the small meltwater streams generated by the... more>
Along with fellow British Guides, Dave Hollinger and Stuart Macdonald I have just had the pleasure of training some of the students of the U.K.'s Ministry of Defence technical college, 'Welbeck'.
Based on the dedication, fitness and sharpness of the students I think the future of the British forces is in good hands, not to mention the potential recruitment for the British Mountain Guid... more>
A clear and stary but moonless night greeted our 01:50 departure from the Refuge Tette Rousse.
It felt mild on the rocky scrambling approach to the Gouter Hut yet, as usual, a breeze accompanied the magnificent pre-dawn view across the Chamonix Aiguilles and the snow was perfectly crisp.
Our 13 hour summit day felt like a long one but the weather was perfect and we beat the impen... more>
In what the Chamonix Meteo reports described as 'scorching' hot weather Tom, Gaz, Noel and I enjoyed 2 solid days of Alpine training based in the Chamonix Valley.
A day based from the top station on the Grandes Montets lift allowed us to practice the different rope techniques used for glacier travel, moving together on steep snow, ice and rock as well as pitched climbing and abseiling... more>
After some cold and snowy conditions the Chamonix Valley has enjoyed a fine week of summer alpine weather. Temperatures have been mild overnight and hot in the day giving afternoon thunderstorms and soft snow on the Glaciers and snowy faces.
Mat, Gregor and I started our Alpine Guides Technical Alpinism course with some multi-... more>
The impressive brooding landscapes of Glen Nevis & Glencoe have been popular locations for some major films over the years. Harry Potter, William Wallace (in 'Braveheart') and the Monty Python crew (in the Holy Grail) have all visited the deep Glens of the West Highlands.
The latest film promises to have some spectacular rock climbing footage as an opening sequence and has made go... more>
After the long and cold (but excellent) winter of 2010 it is a pleasure not a chore to put the ice axes away and dust off the rock boots. Late spring in to early summer in the Highlands is often the best window for good weather, dry rock and midge free climbing.
From Fort William we have had some good recent forays both on the local crags of more>
Glencoe gave it's usual fine display of a variety of brooding light shows today. In a cool but classic West Coast spring day we experienced everything from snow, sleet and hail to a sun tan!
The narrow and airy rhyolite ridge feels like a more meticulous proposition when it's a wet slither rather than a dry romp but the rock is well worn and thus as clean as the way to go is clear.
... more>
Add comment