High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Chamonix Rock Climbing / Menegaux Route 200m,VI+, Aiguille de l'M North Face

Menegaux Route 200m,VI+, Aiguille de l'M North Face

Menegaux Route, Aguille de l'M North West Face, Chamonix Aiguilles

The other classic 'Gaston Rebuffat 100 finest route', The Couzy, takes the system of grooves just to the right and is a little easier

Tim Trying to Keep the Hands Warm on the Menegaux First Pitch, Chamonix Aiguilles

Despite the low altitude the route is North Facing and cool, even on a nice day in mid July

Tim Enjoying the Fine & Sustained Granite Crack Climbing on Pitch 3, Menegaux Route

Hand jamming up steep cracks with lots of pegs gives a classic Chamonix Alpine rock feel!

Pitch 3 is where the main difficulties start on the Menegaux Route, Chamonix Aiguilles

These remain fairly sustained for another 4 or 5 pitches until the summit ridge is reached

Granite Lichen on the Aiguille de l'M North Face with the Chamonix Valley Below

Perhaps due to the relatively long walk-in, absence of bolts & some dubious rock the Menegaux Route has lost some of its earlier popularity so it may now be a good venue to get away from the classic Chamonix Queues!

Thin Granite Crack Climbing (With Pegs!) Remains the Theme up the Aiguille de l'M North Face

Here Tim tackles the steep start to pitch 4. The route deviates slightly left here from the main diedre before re-joining it via an awkward but short wide crack.

Tim using the rock for hand & foot holds....At least one of the party freed this pitch!

Contrary to the AC Guide Book Topo, the Crux comes on the penultimate pitch and starts with steep moves on to a very hollow creaking flake. Deep joy!

The 'North Face Rock' Atmosphere Continues on the Last Pitch of the Menegaux Route

This final pitch contains some pretty wild 'Damoclean' flakes which Tim described as 'Mountain Jenga' & not for the faint hearted or heavy handed!

Summit of the Aiguille de l'M After an Ascent of the Menegaux Route

The Aiguille de Blatiere & Spencer Couloir in the background